"Cyanara delivers a focused one-pitch trad climb up a right-facing corner crack, offering steady gear placements and dependable handholds. This route doubles as a gateway to nearby slab routes, making it strategic for climbers aiming to explore the Diagnosis Cliffs with confidence."
Cyanara is a focused, straightforward crack climb that threads its way up the right-facing corner of Diagnosis Cliffs within Pine Creek Canyon. This one-pitch traditional route stretches about 50 feet, offering climbers a clear line through a series of inviting handholds carved into solid rock. The crack is broad enough to accommodate gear placements up to 4 inches, making it a suitable challenge for those looking to practice crack-building skills while also testing footwork on clean, textured face holds. The climb is known for being a reliable gateway to the ledge system sitting above, which isn’t just a resting spot but a strategic point connecting several of the tougher slab routes in the area. From this ledge, climbers can reach all the anchors needed to rig top ropes, though they should be prepared for some minor down-scrambling to position themselves correctly.
Located in the Sierra Eastside of California, near Bishop, this route benefits from its accessible yet quiet setting, far enough from crowds to offer a serene climbing experience. The approach to Cyanara is through pine-strewn trails that reveal hints of the canyon’s rugged contours and the distant Sierra Nevada peaks. The rock here feels alive, its rough edges encouraging careful hand jams and deliberate foot placements.
Protection centers mainly around single rack gear, emphasizing cams that fit up to 4 inches comfortably in the crack. The rusty, musky anchor at the top requires caution, with an eye toward secure placements if you’re planning to set up a rappel or top rope. Climbers should bring a solid rack with medium to large cams, nuts, and some quickdraws for expedition convenience.
To prepare for Cyanara, timing your ascent in the late spring or early fall yields ideal conditions: cool mornings with warming sun on the face, avoiding the peak summer heat that can bake the rock surface. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential for those smears on face holds adjacent to the crack, while hydration is crucial on the approach, especially on dryer days.
Safety comes with knowing the terrain above the ledge. Although the scramble is short, it can be tricky for those unfamiliar with the sharp slab sections and loose rock. Staying aware and moving deliberately will reward you with wide-open views of the canyon below and a satisfying tactile connection to this modest yet purposeful climb.
Cyanara stands out not because of sheer difficulty, but because of the clarity it offers—simple gear, a single perfect pitch, and a chance to engage with classic california crack climbing at an approachable grade. It’s an excellent choice for climbers looking to hone basic crack technique without the complexity or lengthier commitments of higher-pitched routes in the region.
The anchor at the top is aged and requires careful inspection before trusting; the down-scramble to reach it can be slippery and involves loose rock, so maintaining three points of contact is advised to avoid slips.
Approach through pine forest trails for a quiet, shaded walk to the base.
Late spring and early fall offer the best climbing temperatures.
Use sticky rubber climbing shoes for lateral smears on adjacent face holds.
Exercise care on the short down-scramble above the ledge to reach anchors.
Gear placements up to 4 inches are ideal; bring a full rack focused on medium to large cams. The anchor is musky and requires attention when setting up top ropes or rappels.
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