"The CMC Route on Cynical Pinnacle offers a straightforward trad climb combining stemming chimneys and offwidth cracks, leading climbers to one of Cathedral Spires’ iconic summits. Ideal for developing offwidth skills, this two-pitch route balances technical moves with rewarding summit views."
The CMC Route traces a direct, classic path to the summit of Cynical Pinnacle, offering climbers a straightforward but engaging trad experience within Colorado's Cathedral Spires area. Starting at the base, the real challenge is navigating the approach to the climb itself—the chimney that forms the gateway to this route demands steady stemming and careful footwork, pushing your balance and body tension as the walls draw close. Around 100 feet up, a large ledge opens like a platform in the sky, giving space to reset and prepare for the next sequence.
From here, the route shifts character, demanding a series of offwidth moves rated at 5.8, pushing climbers to manage the wider crack with deliberate control. The rock here offers textured holds, inviting a mixture of both mental focus and raw technique. The climb then angles right into a crack leading to the northwest corner of the pinnacle, positioned roughly 50 vertical feet shy of the summit. This section includes some moderate 5.7 moves, technical but accessible, before easing into simpler terrain where the summit looms.
Throughout the climb, the rock feels alive—granite edges that challenge your grip, and corners shaped by wind and time that seem to push you upward. The route isn’t long—225 feet split into two pitches—but it presents a satisfying blend of physical climbing and route-finding. The protection relies on a standard rack that covers a range suitable for cracks and offwidth placements, giving climbers confidence to commit to each move.
Beyond the technical details, the setting tells a quiet story. The Cathedral Spires area is raw and compelling, a striking pocket of Colorado wilderness offering expansive views over the South Platte River valley. The air carries a sharp clarity, punctuated by occasional bird calls and the whisper of wind shifting through rock formations. Approaching the pinnacle takes focus; once on the climb, you engage in a dynamic conversation with the stone, where each hold and crack demands respect.
Whether you’re stepping into trad for the first time or looking to sharpen your offwidth skills, the CMC Route provides a balanced test. Climbing here requires sturdy footwear, precise rack choices, and an eye for detail on gear placement. The best times to attempt this route are during spring through early fall when rock conditions are stable and weather is reliable. Early mornings or late afternoons offer comfortable shade on the wall, avoiding the harsh midday sun that can bake the granite.
Approach and descent involve careful navigation of the surrounding terrain. The approach packs in forested sections and open ledges; a GPS handy to confirm your position won’t go amiss. Once the summit beckons, descending typically involves retracing your steps or a controlled rappel off fixed anchors. Always double-check anchor integrity and ensure a secure belay setup before committing to descent.
This route is less about flashy moves and more about sustained concentration, rhythm, and the satisfaction of moving steadily upward on a striking Colorado formation. The CMC Route rewards those who seek a mix of technical climbing and a solid outdoor adventure, with the added bonus of spectacular views from one of the region’s most distinctive pinnacles.
The chimney approach to the base can be deceptively exposed with loose rock patches; move cautiously and test holds before weighting. Once on the route, offwidth placements demand confident gear placement skills—missing protection here could result in long falls. Seasonal rockfall risk exists during freeze-thaw cycles, so plan climbs for stable weather windows.
Plan your climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid the peak heat on exposed granite.
Wear climbing shoes with good edging ability and stability for chimney and offwidth sections.
Bring plenty of water—approach involves some exposed hiking under sun.
Double-check your anchor setup at the summit; fixed gear exists but conditions vary seasonally.
Carry a full trad rack geared towards offwidth placements; finger to hand-sized cams will be necessary. The rock accepts solid protection but expect some tricky, technical placements especially on the wider sections.
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