5.10a, Trad
Bishop
California ,United States
"Chip Off the Old Block is a six-pitch trad climb on California’s Scheelite Wall, combining sustained crack systems with a memorable 5.10a crux. It offers diverse terrain, from wide corner cracks to technical finger jams, set against the rugged backdrop of Pine Creek Canyon."
Chip Off the Old Block is a compelling six-pitch trad climb that takes you deep into the heart of the Scheelite Wall, located in California's Pine Creek Canyon. From the first step, the route engages with a towering right-facing corner that defines its character for the opening three pitches. The crack widens and narrows, inviting careful footwork and confident hand jams, mostly cruising through the 5.6 to 5.7 range, with the occasional bulge that tests your technique and composure. The pitch culminates on a comfortable ledge that feels like a small victory perched above the canyon floor.
Following this climb through rugged ledges and crack systems, pitch four directs you straight up the slab, skirting left of a solitary tree through a series of hand jams and finger cracks. It’s a steady, breathing zone pitch offering a moment of balance between technical moves and straightforward climbing. When you reach pitch five, however, the route demands sharper attention. This pitch hides the crux—a short but powerful 5.10a section demanding precise finger work within a crescent-shaped crack. It’s a punch of challenge that defines the route’s character, yet this section can be circumvented by making tactful use of wider cracks or face holds, offering adaptability depending on your comfort and skill.
The final pitch is a blend of deliberate downclimbing and upward thrusts through large hollow flakes and chimney sections. The route’s angle eases as you squeeze through and find your way out to an expansive ledge, rewarding your effort with a vantage point over the canyon. Protection here is well thought out — generous gear placements up to three inches are adequate, with bolt anchors safely awaiting at the belays. Though bigger cams are available, they remain optional rather than required, keeping your rack light but sufficient.
The rock itself is a mix of solid stone and occasional welcome rests on flared cracks, pushing you to read the terrain critically. Combined with the 600-foot length and six pitches, the climb offers a sustained day of climbing that is both engaging and constantly varied, perfect for trad climbers looking for a balance of technical moves and route-finding.
Scheelite Wall’s location within Pine Creek Canyon offers a remote, high-desert setting that wraps you in open sky and shifting light. Early morning or late afternoon are best for stable temperatures and avoiding the harsh midday sun that can bake the face. Approach trails are straightforward though somewhat rugged, so solid boots and hydration are non-negotiable. The descent demands rappelling down the route, so come prepared with at least a 60m rope and double-check your anchor setups.
For those looking to immerse themselves in a blend of crack climbing variety and serious alpine ambience, Chip Off the Old Block stands out as a grounded adventure. Whether targeting the crux or modifying around it, this route invites climbers to engage thoughtfully with the rock and the surrounding landscape, leaving a strong impression without overreaching.
The rappel descent requires solid anchor placements and attention to rope management. Loose flakes exist in some sections, so test holds carefully. The approach trail can be rough and dehydration is a risk during warmer months.
Start early to avoid midday heat on the slab sections.
Hydrate thoroughly—desert air and exertion sap fluids quickly.
Double-check anchor placements during descent; rappel is essential.
Consider bypassing the 5.10a crux by utilizing adjacent wider cracks if needed.
Bring a full trad rack to 3" cams, including some mid-sized pieces for tricky spots and a 60m rope for rappels. Bolt anchors and mussy hooks are placed at belays; larger cams present but not necessary.
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