"Center Dihedral is a compelling 5.9 trad climb on the west face of Pangborn’s Pinnacle, offering a mix of finger cracks, narrow ramps, and a scenic summit ridge. Perfect for climbers ready to test crack technique while enjoying a quiet, rugged Colorado setting."
Rising sharply from the rugged stone of Pangborn's Pinnacle, the Center Dihedral offers an engaging trad climb that balances technical challenge with striking natural features. Located on the west face of the pinnacle, this 300-foot route weaves through cracks and corners that demand precise finger jams and creative gear placements. The adventure begins after tackling the lower slabs, where the main dihedral cleaves the wall like a natural doorway. Early on, a demanding 5.9 finger crack tests both strength and mental focus within the first hundred feet, the narrowness of the crack dictating careful gear choices. While the leader wrestles with placements, the second gains relief on easier moves once the gear is cleared.
Keeping to the core dihedral is key; a tempting wide crack on the left offers an alternate path but strands climbers on a sub-peak, forcing an awkward rappel off-route. The classic line, however, sticks to the right along a slender ramp where a subtle crack guides up toward a broad ledge speckled with trees. This ledge becomes a natural resting point, framed by granite slabs and interrupted by a small roof that guards the final push to the summit ridge.
For those eyeing a stiffer challenge, a speculative 5.10c variation skirts just beneath the roof, demanding more gymnastic moves and committing placements—a test still rarely cleaned in recent years. Beyond the ledge, climbers ascend a wide crack off to the far right, approaching a keyhole feature that offers surprising views across the surrounding wilderness. From there, a short slab section veers left and threads through a cluster of boulders before reaching the summit ridge, where open air and the quiet rustling of winds greet the victorious.
Descending from Center Dihedral calls for a mindful scramble northward along the ridge. Rather than a technical rappel, this walk-off leads downward to the east, marked by twisted, sturdy trees that seem to lean into the journey's end. A small creek winds its way through the drainage, guiding climbers back to the trailhead—though the water fades underground partway, reminding adventurers of the granite’s hidden veins.
Protection-wise, a full rack of cams paired with a set of nuts provides the best security, with the route retaining only a few pins left from the first ascent for fixed gear. This requires a solid understanding of gear placements in cracks that can tighten or widen unexpectedly. Footwear with sticky rubber and confident crack climbing will go far here, while timing your climb during cooler morning hours ensures optimal friction on the polished slabs.
Center Dihedral captures the essence of Colorado’s high country climbing—a mix of demanding moves, thoughtful route finding, and sensory immersion in a landscape that pushes you to read the rock and respond fluidly. Whether you’re chasing your first 5.9 or weaving into the more serious variations, this climb holds steady as a rite of passage on Pangborn’s storied walls.
Be cautious on the descent scramble: the ridge can be loose and is lined with dense trees that can mask footing. Avoid the wide crack variation unless confident with rappelling off sub-peaks. Seasonal runoff may swell the creek near the base, so plan accordingly after heavy rains.
Start early to avoid the afternoon heat on the west-facing slabs.
Stick to the main dihedral to avoid getting stranded on sub-peaks requiring a rappel.
Focus on precise gear placements in the finger crack to maintain safety on the crux.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for friction on polished granite sections.
Bring a full set of cams with one set of nuts. The route’s protection depends on solid placements in finger cracks and narrow cracks, with a few old pins from the first ascent.
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