"This unique route starts in a cool, dripping cave before moving onto a sunlit slab that demands subtle balance and gear savvy. Blending chimney stemming with bolted slab climbing, it offers a one-pitch test at 5.9- that’s both accessible and engaging."
Carved into the rugged contours of Staunton State Park, the Cave of Eternal Stench presents a hands-on climbing experience that mixes confined chimney moves with open slab exposure. The climb beckons with an unusual approach—starting inside a damp, shadowed cave where water drips steadily, setting an atmospheric tone before opening onto a sunlit slab that tests both balance and route-finding. Despite the ominous name, the route’s true challenge lies in its technical transitions and thoughtful protection placement rather than any overpowering odors.
The initial chimney section demands steady stemming and precise footwork. Climbers must negotiate a tight space while clipping a bolt, a sequence that some may judge tricky but reveals a 5.7 rhythm once the right sequence is unlocked. Emerging from the cave’s embrace, the slab spreads out ahead with bolts spaced generously, welcoming supplementary small gear placements to bolster confidence on less featured rock. This shifting terrain changes the pace, inviting a steady but deliberate push upward.
At the fifth bolt, a fork appears: the main line continues with a shallow crack offering a subtle but demanding crux, while an alternate 5.7 option, called “The Voodoo That You Do,” veers right. The crack section demands refined touch and patience, pressing climbers to read the rock intimately and manage their efforts wisely. Anchoring atop, two bolt chains offer security and a clear rappel point, though a 70-meter rope will just barely reach if doubled; two ropes are advised for those wary of stretcher rappels.
The setting amplifies the experience. Dry marmots dart nearby, adding unexpected wildlife encounters, while the cave’s moisture lends a tactile freshness to the start that contrasts with the open granite slab’s sun-bleached surface. The mixture of confined space and open exposure crafts a dynamic journey up the rock that’s as much about mental focus as physical ability.
For climbers seeking a route that balances technical chimney moves, cautious slab climbing, and straightforward protection options, Cave of Eternal Stench stands as a solid choice at Staunton State Park. Appreciated by both sport and trad enthusiasts, it is well-suited for those looking to sharpen slab technique amid a striking forested area with easy access. Hydration and footwear with sticky soles will be key for managing the slab sections, where scrappy edges and friction hold sway. Early morning climbs are recommended to avoid the heat that can bake the slab in midday sun.
Approach is direct but requires attention to the cave entrance, which may be slippery from drips. Be prepared with protection gear from small cams to nuts along with a set of quickdraws to use on the bolts, allowing you to safely navigate this blend of crack and slab. Descending by rappel is straightforward but demands precise rope management—remember, a 70-meter rope will work if careful, but two ropes offer extra peace of mind.
Whether you’re refining slab technique or seeking a single-pitch climb under varied conditions, the Cave of Eternal Stench delivers a practical yet evocative route. It invites you to engage deeply with the unfolding moves, from shadowed cave chimney to sunlit granite slab, making every clip and foot placement a small victory in an uncluttered climbing experience amid Colorado’s shifting light and forested slopes.
The cave entrance can be damp and slippery from constant water dripping. Use care moving through this confined space, and double-check anchor knots if relying on a single 70m rope for rappel to avoid getting stuck.
Start early to avoid heat baking the slab in the afternoon.
Sticky-soled shoes improve grip on the slab sections.
Watch for slick surfaces near the damp cave entrance.
Bring two ropes or prepare for a careful 70m rappel.
Use a rack with small cams and nuts up to #0.5 or #0.75 to supplement seven fixed bolts. Two ropes are advisable for a safer rappel; with a single 70m rope, careful knot placement is essential due to the length.
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