"Catholic Boy is a steep, single-pitch trad climb on Scheelite Wall that blends powerful crack jamming with runout face climbing. Though once considered modest, this route now challenges climbers with its sparse protection and slick dike moves, rewarding those ready to embrace exposure with bold technique and steady nerves."
Catholic Boy on Scheelite Wall stands as a reminder that the Sierra Eastside still holds quietly defiant routes where skill and mindset meet raw exposure. This single-pitch tradition climb stretches 165 feet across steep flared cracks that demand confident hand jamming and a cool head against the runout sections. Once considered a modest 5.7 in the mid-1980s, modern climbers recognize it as a firm 5.8 PG13, a rating that carries a sober warning: the protection is sparse and often marginal, requiring strong route-finding and a willingness to trust your feet on friction-dependent faces.
The approach to the climb threads through the dry Pine Creek Canyon, where the arid granite bears the heat of the high desert sun but also promises relief if you time your ascent for early morning or late afternoon. The rock feels alive under the fingers — cracks flare into smooth faces that challenge grip and balance, while the route’s signature slippery dike demands precise footwork and nerve. This dike, slick and lean, dares you to push upward despite thin protection and the occasional runout stretch. The new two-bolt anchor at the top offers a secure belay point and descent option, yet rappelling requires careful rope management. Two ropes are recommended to reach the ground safely, although a 70m rope and a swing left can work if you’re adept at downclimbing the hillside.
Gear-wise, a light rack covers the essentials — small to medium cams that can find purchase in tight cracks are key. The protection is often intermittent, so placing gear with intent is crucial to reduce the consequence of the longer stretches of face climbing. This climb is a test of composure as much as technique, inviting climbers comfortable at the grade to embrace its character rather than shy away from the exposure and runout challenges. The sun-bleached walls and open desert skies combine into a stark, invigorating environment that rewards those who prepare thoroughly and move decisively.
Beginners seeking a safe and well-protected introduction will want to look elsewhere, but for those seasoned with Sierra granite and ready to respect the route’s quiet danger, Catholic Boy offers a bold slice of Bishop climbing history. Bring solid crack skills, a tidy rack, and the patience to assess each move—this route reminds you that sometimes, the rock asks a little more in return for its timeless challenge.
The route's protection is sparse, with sections that offer only marginal or intermittent pro. Climbers should be prepared to handle runouts and the slick dike with caution. The descent requires either a two-rope rappel or confident swing and downclimb on tricky terrain—missteps here can lead to serious consequences.
Start early or late to avoid the peak desert heat on the approach and climb.
Bring a light to moderate rack emphasizing small and mid-size cams for limited placements.
Familiarize yourself with friction face climbing; the dike section is notably slick.
Plan your rappel diligently—two ropes or careful downclimbing are necessary.
A light rack designed for cracks is essential here, focusing on small to medium cams. Protection is sometimes marginal, so careful placements are critical. The climb ends at a new two-bolt anchor equipped for rappels requiring two ropes, or a well-executed swing left with a 70m rope.
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