"Carpet Bombing in Eldorado Canyon is a sharp reminder that some climbs demand not just skill but acute caution. This bold 5.9 X trad route forces experienced climbers into serious risk management amid loose flakes and sparse protection, making it a unique test of nerve and judgment."
Carpet Bombing is a climb that commands respect—not for its technical difficulty, but for its raw, unpredictable character carved into the rugged face of Millennium Crag in Eldorado Canyon State Park, Colorado. This single-pitch, 110-foot trad route is less about flawless holds and more about managing a complex dance with an unstable wall. The climb earns its 5.9 X rating because it challenges both your mental grit and your instincts with loose rock and sparse protection, making it a route strictly for the confident and cautious.
Approaching Carpet Bombing, you’re drawn to a distinct bright yellow patch about 20 meters above the base. This vivid streak marks the heart of the climb, a stark beacon amid weathered stone. The approach is short yet steep, requiring careful footing as you head uphill from the nearby route 'Throwing the Baby.' Natural signs of recent rockfall greet you—large flakes shattered near the ground and a small pine tree hanging upside down by its roots, testament to the route’s volatile nature. Climbing here means sharing a silent dialogue with an environment that conceals hazards just beneath the surface.
The first few moves tug you into an uneasy rhythm, ascending right below the yellow zone and skirting a right-facing dihedral. Protection is minimal and far between; only careful placements with small to mid-sized cams and nuts offer reassurance in a sea of questionable holds. The route runs out dramatically, forcing a leap of faith that has earned it the X rating. These early crux moves reward precise footwork and steady hand placements but demand constant vigilance.
Further up, the wall presents a fragile puzzle of gold-toned flakes and cracks that seem ready to detach at the slightest touch. This section tests your judgment as much as your climbing skills. Every hold selected carries an implicit question—will it hold? Progressing rightward and upwards involves a delicate balance of trust and hesitation as you pick your way amidst a precarious environment.
The climb concludes on a ledge crowned with a sturdy tree, tethered by a single good sling. Here you’ll find the shared anchor with the nearby B-52 route, but no rap rings or quicklinks, so plan to add your own hardware for a safe descent. Rappelling is the exit strategy, a final careful negotiation with an unstable terrain.
Carpet Bombing lives as a rare example of Eldorado’s more dangerous offerings. It was originally a retreat line when the main gold headwall proved too unstable to climb safely. The route’s history speaks to a bold first ascent party who wrestled with falling rock and unstable flakes, and this legacy makes the climb far less an adventure playground and more a serious challenge for experienced Eldo climbers. The grade 5.9 here belies the real risk—the climb’s difficulty fluctuates depending on how much loose rock you’re willing to engage with and how comfortable you are absorbing risk.
Gear up with a light trad rack extending up to 3-inch cams and nuts, and be prepared for placements that are as much about strategy as security. Climbing Carpet Bombing is a measure of your commitment to Eldorado’s raw side, demanding respect from start to finish. This is not a route for those new to the canyon or unsure of managing tricky protection or runouts.
Seasonally, late spring through early fall offers the best window—dry rock and moderate temperatures aid focus. The wall’s position means morning attempts avoid direct sun, providing cooler conditions that help maintain friction. Stay alert to weather changes and be conscious of rockfall risk, especially after freezes or heavy rain.
For those who choose to engage with Carpet Bombing, the route is a lesson in caution, patience, and tough decision-making. It’s a vivid conversation with a wild cliff—a reminder that not all climbs are about smooth flows, but sometimes about carefully threading through chaos and testing your resilience in the face of uncertainty.
Expect large unstable flakes and frequent loose rock. Protection is scarce and must be placed with extra scrutiny. Avoid the route if you lack confidence in managing runouts or climbing with an X rating. Do not underestimate the hazards on this moderate technical climb.
Approach from 'Throwing The Baby' trail, heading uphill about 30 meters.
Check the anchor and add a quicklink or rap ring for safer descent before climbing.
Avoid this route after rain or freeze-thaw cycles; rockfall risk increases significantly.
Preferred climbing times are morning or early afternoon for cooler, shaded conditions.
Carry a light trad rack with cams and nuts up to 3 inches. Protection is sparse and tricky due to loose rock and extended sections—plan placements carefully to minimize risk.
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