"Campfire offers an 85-foot sport climb on a striking corner feature at Dines Cliff, providing climbers a challenging 5.9 crux with a long reach on Colorado granite. Just left of Black Bart, this route delivers approachable yet engaging climbing, perfect for those seeking a crisp line in Staunton State Park’s South Platte area."
Campfire is a single-pitch sport climb perched on the rugged Dines Cliff within Staunton State Park, offering climbers an 85-foot ascent wrapped in raw Colorado character. This route settles into a right-facing corner formed by a massive detached block leaning against the sheer cliff, just a stone’s throw left of the more notorious Black Bart. From the first clip, the wall demands precise footwork and body tension as you negotiate an off-line sidepull that tips the difficulty to a solid 5.9. Climbers will feel the route’s intention around the upper crux where a long reach leftward to a sidepull provides a delicate balance of power and finesse. Attempting a more direct line straight up the headwall nudges the challenge into 10a/b territory, so this route cleverly tempts both those content with classic 5.9 movement and those seeking a taste of harder moves on natural features.
The route is bolted generously with eleven well-spaced sport clips leading to a shared anchor with Black Bart, setting a secure stage for lead climbers to focus on technique rather than gear placement. The rock itself is Colorado granite—gritty and touch-responsive—rewarding careful smearing and solid edging. A light breeze often filters through the pine-lined ledges below, carrying the scent of dry needles and earth, while distant bird calls punctuate the quiet wilderness. This area, part of the South Platte corridor, blends easy access with enough seclusion to make each ascent feel like a small adventure outside the city bustle.
Access to Dines Cliff involves a moderate hike with well-marked trails, ideal for warming up your legs before your hands take over. The approach feels alive underfoot, a mix of pine duff and crunchy stones, with glimpses of the surrounding forested slopes and cliffs that hint at more climbs to explore. Climbers should time their visit for mornings or late afternoons to avoid peak afternoon heat and to enjoy the soft slanted sun that spills across the cliff face, improving hold visibility and comfort.
In planning for Campfire, expect moderate exposure to sun, so layering light, breathable clothing is wise. Hydration is crucial; carry at least two liters, as shade on the trail is sporadic. Reliable climbing shoes with firm edging will assist in navigating the varied holds along the corner and the upper sequences. Given the wall’s sport nature, quickdraws are essential—longer slings may help reduce rope drag around the block feature. Don’t overlook a helmet; while the cliff is generally stable, loose stones can shift during busy days.
To descend, climbers rappel from the shared anchor, exiting carefully given the rock’s texture and occasional ledge debris. The anchored rappel safely deposits climbers back at the trailhead without demanding a steep or hazardous downclimb, making Campfire a climb that invites repeated attempts and skill sharpening. Whether you’re looking to push your 5.9 limit or savor classic lines in a pristine outdoor setting, Campfire delivers a straightforward yet memorable vertical experience at Staunton.
Watch for loose stones on the ledges below the climb, especially after heavy use or wind. The approach trail has some uneven footing, so stay alert to avoid ankle twists. Always wear a helmet to protect from falling debris.
Plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday sun on the wall.
Wear shoes with good edging capability to navigate the granite sidepull and headwall moves.
Bring at least two liters of water; the approach and exposed sections offer limited shade.
Use a helmet due to occasional loose rock on the ledges near the climb.
Eleven bolts secure the route, leading to a shared anchor with Black Bart. Quickdraws are necessary, and longer slings can help with rope drag around the detached block feature.
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