"Camay offers a rewarding two-pitch trad climb on Mont Pinacle, guiding you along a clear crack and corner system with traditional protection. Ideal for climbers seeking a moderate challenge paired with a scenic, quiet forest approach and confident gear placements."
At the heart of Quebec’s Eastern Townships lies Mont Pinacle, a rugged playground for trad climbers seeking straightforward routes with a touch of character. Among its accessible lines, Camay stands out as a moderate two-pitch adventure that suits those eager to combine classic crack climbing with scenic exposure. Approaching Camay, a 45-minute trek from the base parking leads you through forested trails that shift between soft earth and scattered rock, threading between towering pines standing watch over the ascent. The air here hums with anticipation, charged by rustling leaves and the steady rhythm of your approach.
Camay itself begins at the second belay stance of the adjacent Classique route, offering a natural launch point into a route that traces a clean crack and an angled corner. The climb is rooted in tradition, demanding solid gear placements along a 170-foot path that climbs steadily but never hurries. The rock’s texture provides dependable holds, while the crack invites fingers, hands, and gear to find their grip in a dance of technique and patience. Midway, climbers must navigate past a subtle roof, veering right to find a secure exit that opens to exposure and refreshing breezes.
Protection here is strictly trad—no bolts puncture the stone. Bringing a full rack is essential, as the route relies on standard cams and nuts placed carefully within the crack’s natural rhythm. Build your anchor using trees, sturdy stumps, or chockstones perched within the rock's folds. This demands a thoughtful eye, since placements must be trustworthy to safeguard each move.
For descent, two 60-meter rappels will bring you back to where the climb started, though leaving no gear behind opens the door to a downclimb walkoff from the summit—an option many find preferable for a softer end to the day. Timing your climb for clear weather is key to enjoy both safe rope work and the panoramic views that reward the effort. Early fall or late spring offer crisp temperatures and fewer crowds, while summer warmth can turn the granite warm to the touch but still manageable in shaded sections.
The area around Mont Pinacle offers a quiet refuge from urban bustle, with plenty of trail and climbing options nearby for a full day of exploration. The route’s moderate grade suits a broad audience from confident beginners honing trad skills to seasoned climbers looking for an enjoyable outing devoid of high commitment.
Overall, Camay is a classic choice for anyone eager to experience Estrie's climbing heritage firsthand, balancing solid rock, straightforward beta, and just enough challenge to sharpen your rack management and crack climbing prowess. With proper preparation and respect for the mountain’s rhythm, you’ll leave grounded but fulfilled, carrying the essence of Estrie’s granite in your kit and memory.
Gear placements must be carefully assessed since the route lacks fixed protection. Watch your anchors and double-check slings on tree and stump anchors. Weather changes can affect rock friction, so avoid wet conditions. The rappel descent is straightforward but requires full 60m ropes for safe returns.
Plan for a 45-minute approach hike, following the trail to the Directissime area.
Bring a full trad rack; route is bolt-free and demands solid placements.
Consider a walkoff descent if no gear is left at the base to avoid rappelling.
Best climbed in spring or fall for comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds.
No bolts encountered; standard trad rack required with emphasis on cams and nuts. Anchor building relies on natural features like trees, stumps, and chockstones that must be slung carefully.
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