"Breakfast in Bed is a single-pitch trad climb on The Bastille’s west face that challenges with loose, technical moves early on before easing into a jug-filled exposed arete. It offers a distinct mix of caution and exhilaration amidst Eldorado Canyon’s iconic granite."
Breakfast in Bed carves a distinct path up the west face of The Bastille in Eldorado Canyon, offering climbers a blend of technical trickery and exposed adventure on compact, varied rock. The route demands attention immediately, with a start that challenges balance and composure on loose, uncertain holds. The initial moves test your judgment, as the rock tends to flake and shift; it’s a call to keep your wits sharp amid this raw section. What follows, however, is an exhilarating push up a stark arete lined with substantial huecos—large, inviting jugs that contrast beautifully against the beginning’s uneasy terrain. This section feels deliberate and focused, as though the rock itself encourages measured confidence after the early caution.
Approaching the climb, you’ll find the starting ledge marked by a towering Christmas tree, a natural landmark that signals the beginning of the route. The scramble up to this ledge can be straightforward if you choose a direct line, versus the slightly longer traverse suggested in some topos. Once on route, the path moves right through a chimney that skirts the arete’s edge, before committing fully to its exposed spine. The exposure here is tangible—wind weaves through the crack, and the outside face of the arete beckons with large, positive holds that practically ask you to trust your body weight.
Protection is generally reliable with a standard Eldorado rack, although some longer runners will save your rope from wandering across uneven features. The rock’s complexity early on requires careful gear placement and route reading, but after passing the brittle lower bands, the protection feels sturdier, and the holds more consistent. The hardest moves cluster in the first third of the climb, where the loose rock demands finesse over brute strength. Beyond this crux, the climb smooths out into easier, almost relaxed climbing, topping out on a 5.4 section that ends beside a sturdy tree, perfect for belaying or concluding your pitch.
Descending is a simple walk off the summit, offering a moment to breathe in Eldorado Canyon’s raw granite surroundings and expansive views. This climb strikes a thoughtful balance: it’s accessible enough for those stepping into Eldo’s trad scene, yet it carries enough sharp edges to keep seasoned climbers alert and engaged. For anyone aiming to experience one of the more subtly challenging nooks of the Bastille, Breakfast in Bed offers a daring invitation, blending quiet moments of exposure with tangible safety when you need it most.
Start moves involve loose and unstable rock—careful testing of holds and deliberate placements are essential. The initial chimney and traverse require balance on crumbly stone; fall potential is higher here, so keep protection close. Avoid downclimbing off the top due to loose ledges and potential rockfall hazards.
Scramble straight up to the Christmas tree ledge rather than traversing as some topos suggest.
Be prepared for tricky gear placements in the loose rock near the start; patience is key.
Watch your footing on the initial traverses—balance and precision prevent slips.
Top out at the belay tree and descend via the walk-off; avoid downclimbing loose rock.
Standard Eldorado Canyon trad rack is sufficient; longer runners recommended to reduce rope drag on the arete section.
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