"Boulderer's Delight on Slabbo’s east face delivers a compact two-pitch trad climb with finger cracks, a key bulge, and an optional chimney or friction slab second pitch. It’s a straightforward but satisfying climb for South Platte fans seeking moderate challenges off the beaten path."
On the rugged east face of Slabbo, Boulderer's Delight offers a two-pitch trad climb that balances straightforward route-finding with rewarding natural features. The approach sets the tone, beginning at a sharp right-hand corner before the quarry—a subtle landmark marked by a weathered road-closed sign resting on the old access road. This forgotten path, tucked beyond the popular gemstones trail, climbs quickly and quietly to the top of the Slabbo, where the climb’s signature spruce tree marks the start of the route.
The first pitch immediately invites you into a friendly but engaging groove of jams that ease you upward. You’ll negotiate a small bulge, pressing past a wide section that skirts right of a nearby bolted 5.13a line, before settling into a hands crack with a satisfying rhythm. Bulging rock blebs challenge your balance just before the belay station beneath a distinctive chimney. While the pitch is shorter and somewhat wandering, it carries the character of classic South Platte crack climbing.
Pitch two offers two distinct options: slide up the chimney at a moderate 5.5, which stands out as a pleasant, chimney-climbing experience, or push the difficulty with the friction slabs of Twoys for Twats, rated at a steep 10a. Both finish options lead you to a comfortable descent point. The climb’s anchors reflect some local maintenance quirks: the 70-foot anchor described in some guides is elusive, and a 120-foot set has seen its hangers removed. Still, finishing at the top rewards you with views over the sprawling Buffalo Creek drainage.
Gear up with a standard South Platte trad rack up to 4 inches—nothing exotic but prepare for some tricky placements near the bulge and varied crack sizes throughout. The walk-off right from the base is straightforward, adding a layer of convenience to your session.
Though Boulderer's Delight does not top many star charts, its blend of crack jams, bulges, and optional chimney or slab provides a pocket of South Platte flavor that’s both accessible and enjoyable. It’s a good pick for climbers seeking a moderate multi-pitch that mixes jamming with friction climbing in a setting that’s under the radar yet easily reached.
Rock quality remains generally solid but watch for loose rock around the bulge area. Anchors are not always well maintained; double-check placements before hanging. The descent walk-off is easy but keep an eye on footing.
Start your approach at the old road-closed sign near the quarry to efficiently reach the east face.
Look for a spruce tree marking the route’s start—it's just behind it.
Prepare for some wandering on pitch 1; keep track of the subtle natural line.
Pitch 2 offers a choice: play it safe with the chimney or test your slab technique on Twoys for Twats.
Bring a standard South Platte trad rack up to 4 inches. Be ready for placements through a range of crack sizes and a bulge that demands careful pro management.
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