HomeClimbingBolter's Lament

Bolter's Lament: Classic Trad and Aid Test at Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
hook moves
aid climbing
traditional
aged bolts
multi-pitch
Eldorado Canyon
sandstone
exposed
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad, Aid
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Bolter's Lament
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bolter's Lament challenges climbers with exposed hook moves on weathered bolts and a free climbing finish that requires steady technique. This Eldorado Canyon classic blends aid tension with trad finesse across three demanding pitches."

Bolter's Lament: Classic Trad and Aid Test at Eldorado Canyon

Bolter's Lament stands as a raw, gritty challenge etched into the walls of Eldorado Canyon's Redgarden sector, offering three compelling pitches that mix traditional climbing with aid techniques. This route doesn’t just ask for power and finesse but a strong mindset to confidently handle exposed hook moves on aged hardware. The climb begins with two short pitches peppered with bolts, long removed or unreliable by now, meaning that many of the placements require skillful use of hooks—each move engaging both the imagination and nerve. The hooks, while not technically difficult, present an unsettling dance on thin edges where the rock's crevices dare you to trust your gear and your instincts.

The final pitch frees out to the Upper Ramp with a 5.9- section, rewarding climbers who have conserved energy and composure on the aid moves below. The path upwards is best navigated by following the natural line of least resistance—possibly mirroring the second pitch of Tower Two nearby—to avoid unnecessary complications.

Eldorado Canyon’s towering walls frame this route with open skies and sharp shadows, the sun bouncing off the sandstone and illuminating pockets where chalk smudges mark previous ascents. Expect rough rock textures and occasional sharp edges, demanding comfortable shoes with solid edging. At 200 feet total, the route is long enough for consideration but concise enough to fit into a full day of exploration in this historic crag.

For those preparing to climb Bolter’s Lament, gear up with a comprehensive rack tailored to both aid and free climbing: an abundance of hooks and a solid free climbing rack for the upper pitches. Bolts from the early 80s have likely deteriorated, so plan to supplement with your own protection and place gear meticulously. Familiarity with placing aid gear and controlled climbing techniques is essential here.

The approach to Redgarden is direct but requires steady footing along rocky trails typical of Eldorado’s rugged entrance zones. The climbing area’s proximity to Boulder, Colorado, allows for quick access yet immerses you in a quiet world of vertical exposure and rock-bound focus. Climbers are rewarded not only with the physical challenge but with a sense of history beneath cliffs that have tested generations.

Timing your ascent for early morning ensures cool temperatures and less fierce afternoon sun, as the route’s orientation catches heat quickly. The descent involves a cautious rappel or careful downclimb, with loose rock sometimes waiting to remind you of the canyon’s raw character.

Bolter’s Lament does not offer comfort; it demands respect, planning, and a steady hand. This is a route for climbers eager to experience Eldorado’s classic grit, combining historical intrigue with genuine technical challenge.

Climber Safety

Caution is essential due to the probable deterioration of 1/4" bolts installed over four decades ago. Avoid relying solely on these fixed pieces for protection. Hook placements demand care, and loose rock near the rappel line can pose hazards during descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Aid
Pitches3
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Trust your hook placements but double-check for stability—expect some aged or missing bolts.

Approach early morning to avoid heat on exposed sandstone.

Wear climbing shoes with good edging to handle sharp, rough rock textures.

Prepare for a rappel descent and check your anchors rigorously.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- A2
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- free climbing pitch feels solid but not overly stiff, providing a satisfying conclusion after the aid-heavy lower pitches. The A2 rating for aid sections reflects moderate difficulty, with the main challenge coming from the questionable condition of the original bolts and reliance on hook placements. Climbers familiar with classic Eldorado aid will find the rating appropriate but should expect mental tension beyond pure technical difficulty.

Gear Requirements

This route demands confidence with hooks due to likely absence of older bolts, plus a traditional rack for the free climbing upper pitch. Bring a variety of hooks and solid placements for aid sections.

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Tags

hook moves
aid climbing
traditional
aged bolts
multi-pitch
Eldorado Canyon
sandstone
exposed