HomeClimbingBlack Bart

Black Bart Climb at Dines Cliff, Staunton State Park

Conifer, Colorado United States
sport climbing
single pitch
vertical face
wave bolts
Colorado
overhang
moderate crux
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Bart
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tackle Black Bart, a focused 80-foot route at Dines Cliff, where powerful moves meet accessible protection. With a solid crux early on and a mix of overhung corners and easier terrain above, this climb offers a balanced taste of Colorado’s sport climbing landscape."

Black Bart Climb at Dines Cliff, Staunton State Park

Black Bart at Dines Cliff presents a compelling single-pitch challenge that suits climbers ready to engage both physicality and technique in Colorado’s rugged South Platte region. The route veers from ramped beginnings into a demanding vertical face, where the crux resides early and tests your grip and balance before easing into less strenuous climbing toward the top. The rock offers a firm, reliable texture with a mixture of overhung corners and open holds that require thoughtful movement rather than brute force. The climb’s 80-foot length is long enough to feel substantial but manageable for a focused session or warm-up.

Starting with deliberate footwork on the ramps, climbers set themselves into a rhythm that quickly confronts the vertical challenge ahead. The upper left-facing corner demands a brief adjustment in technique as it overhangs slightly, but it frees up into smoother terrain, providing a welcome chance to breathe and appreciate the pine-scented air and the distant chatter of the South Platte below.

Protection is straightforward and well established with nine wave bolts secured along the route and a two-bolt anchor outfitted with chains, ensuring peace of mind during both the ascent and the rappel. This setup encourages confident lead climbing or top-roping for those refining their skills. The setting within Staunton State Park blends natural beauty with accessibility, where pine forests frame the cliff and sunlight dances through shifting clouds, inviting climbers to return multiple times through the day or season.

Approach trails are well marked and maintained, ranging through shaded forest paths to rocky clearings that feed directly into the base. Allow roughly 20 minutes from the main parking lot to the climb’s starting point, tracking GPS coordinates at 39.50342 latitude and -105.36936 longitude for precise navigation.

Practical advice includes preparing for moderate elevation gain and variable sun exposure—early morning or late afternoon can offer cooler climbs with softer lighting. Footwear with solid edging and sticky rubber will maximize your hold on the slabby sections. Hydration is critical; the higher altitude and dry conditions quickly sap energy.

For those looking to add it to their rotation, Black Bart combines solid movement with accessible protection and is a staple introduction to Colorado’s sport climbing circuit. The blend of power moves and moderate cruxes rewards focus and composure, while the surrounding views of forested hills and winding river below remind you why climbing here remains a captivating pursuit.

Climber Safety

While protection is secure, attention to foot placement on the ramps early in the climb is crucial, as loose footholds can appear. The anchor is solid, but always double-check before rappel. Seasonal thunderstorms can roll in quickly; plan your climb to avoid afternoon weather shifts.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and shifting sun angles.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for grip on slab and vertical faces.

Hydrate well—altitude can dry you out faster than expected.

Use a rack focused on quickdraws; no traditional gear placements needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, Black Bart sits at a classic entry-to-intermediate difficulty, with a crux early in the climb that requires strength and precision. The grade feels true to hard but fair; the overhung corner adds a challenge without pushing into strenuous territory. Compared to nearby routes, it’s approachable yet engaging enough to reward climbers stepping up from beginner climbs.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with nine wave bolts and a two-bolt anchor featuring chains, Black Bart offers secure protection suitable for confident lead or reliable top-rope setups.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Black Bart and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
vertical face
wave bolts
Colorado
overhang
moderate crux