"Bilge Pump offers a classic 100-foot hand crack on Ship’s Prow with a challenging wide section near the top. This moderate 5.8 trad climb presents an ideal alpine introduction for climbers seeking a clean granite crack in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park."
Bilge Pump presents a straightforward yet rewarding traditional climb that ascends an unmistakable crack slicing the face of Ship's Prow on Long's Peak, within Rocky Mountain National Park. This single-pitch moderate 5.8 route stretches about 100 feet, offering climbers a sustained sequence of hand jams with a demanding wide section near the top. The crack’s texture shifts from more narrow finger and hand jams at the base to a wider, powerful off-width move that challenges climbers to rely on solid positioning and core engagement.
The route’s alpine setting brings an invigorating mountain ambiance—cool air brushed by pine scents and occasional gusts that tease the rock. The granite here feels alive: weathered but solid, it invites confident gear placements and attentive footwork. The exposure on the face opens out to sweeping vistas of Long's Peak and the surrounding subalpine forest, reinforcing why this climb is a classic outing for those comfortable running trad in an alpine environment.
Access to Ship's Prow involves a short hike from the Longs Peak trailhead. The approach crosses a mixture of forested switchbacks and rocky slabs, requiring attention to footing but generally manageable within 30 to 45 minutes, depending on pace and load. The altitude around 11,000 feet means climbers should be mindful of the thinner air—taking time to acclimatize and stay hydrated will enhance performance and safety.
Protection on Bilge Pump demands a standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Placements are straightforward along the crack but expect the wide section near the top to test your largest cams and off-width technique. The rock quality supports confident gear placements, but the occasional loose flake near the top requires a discerning eye. Wearing solid mountaineering boots or approach shoes is recommended for the descent, which can be made by abseil or careful downclimb.
Spring through early fall is the prime season for Bilge Pump. Mornings tend to offer cooler, grippier conditions on the granite, while afternoons can bring sun-warmed rock and swift weather changes. Planning your climb early in the day helps avoid exposure to afternoon thunderstorms common in these mountains.
Whether you’re stepping onto Ship's Prow for your first alpine crack climb or seeking to sharpen your trad skills in a spectacular Rocky Mountain setting, Bilge Pump delivers an engaging pitch. It combines physical movement, natural beauty, and the crisp mountain air into one accessible alpine adventure, leaving climbers with a satisfying sense of accomplishment and connection to the mountain spirit.
Watch for unstable flakes near the upper wide section, and remain aware of rapidly changing alpine weather. The approach and descent include rugged terrain, requiring solid footwear and attention to footing.
Acclimate to the altitude before tackling the climb to maintain stamina and focus.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the Longs Peak area.
Inspect gear placements carefully near the wide section for loose flakes.
Plan your descent either by rappel or downclimbing with caution on loose rock.
Bring a standard trad rack up to a #4 Camalot for full coverage. Solid hand jams dominate, with a wide section near the top requiring your largest cams and off-width technique.
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