HomeClimbingBig Squirrels Don't Cry

Big Squirrels Don't Cry: A Compact Sport Climb in Staunton State Park

Denver, Colorado United States
solid granite
sport climbing
single pitch
gentle dihedral
chickenheads
shade in afternoon
Length: 75 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Big Squirrels Don't Cry
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Big Squirrels Don't Cry offers a focused 75-foot sport climb within Staunton State Park’s Canyon Amphitheater. With rock-solid holds and a gently overhanging dihedral, this 5.9 route invites climbers to hone their skills amid Colorado’s iconic granite scenery."

Big Squirrels Don't Cry: A Compact Sport Climb in Staunton State Park

Big Squirrels Don't Cry sits quietly within the rugged curves of Staunton State Park’s Canyon Amphitheater, offering a short but satisfying sport climb for those hungry to test their technique on solid granite. The climb begins tucked at the back of the canyon, where cool shadows settle beneath towering rock faces. As you start up from the left side, the route leads to a comfortable ledge before veering into a clean dihedral, letting you engage your hands and feet against the rock’s natural angle. While the route measures a compact 75 feet, every movement is deliberate and involved, making it an ideal challenge for climbers aiming to sharpen their balance on gently overhanging terrain.

What stands out here is the presence of large chickenhead formations near the top—these bulbous rock features appear precarious from below but prove unwaveringly secure once reached, assuring confidence in your final moves. Protection is straightforward, with ten well-spaced lead bolts and a sturdy top anchor, allowing you to focus on climbing rather than gear placement. Though just a single pitch at present, local chatter hints at potential expansion to a second pitch, promising future exploration.

Staunton State Park itself blankets the route in a blend of pine-scented air and panoramic views of the South Platte valley below. The approach is an engaging hike through forested terrain, where the sound of wind threading through branches merges with distant river currents daring you onward. The route’s sport classification and manageable 5.9 rating make it accessible to an array of climbers, from those brushing up on their lead climbing skills to more experienced adventurers seeking a reliable warm-up climb.

Given its southern orientation tucked within the canyon, climbs here benefit from morning sun with afternoon shade offering reprieve during warmer months. You’ll want to time your ascent to avoid the midday heat in summer or the slick conditions that can arrive after winter storms. Approach trails remain well-marked but include sections of uneven ground, so sturdy footwear and a steady pace pay off. Once at the base, you’ll find a clear staging area that feels secluded yet gaugeably safe.

Descents are straightforward with a single rappel from the top anchor back to the ground, making it easy to manage turnaround times and plan for additional climbs in the area. For this reason, Big Squirrels Don't Cry fits neatly into a day of mixed routes at Staunton, combining technical movement with classic Colorado rock textures. Consider packing extra water, a light windbreaker, and a helmet to prepare for variable conditions.

Ultimately, the route offers a grounded outdoor experience where the rock’s integrity and the canyon’s quiet grandeur intersect. It doesn’t chase flash or spectacle but instead rewards steady climbing and observant eyes, inviting you to move confidently along its bolts and finish with a smile at the top. Big Squirrels Don't Cry embodies the accessible spirit of Colorado sport climbing—a solid line that respects the natural rock while delivering a measured challenge to keep your skills sharp in one of the state’s most cherished climbing spots.

Climber Safety

While the chickenheads near the top are secure, climbers should still move deliberately as these features can appear unstable from below. The approach trail includes some uneven footing, so watch your step and wear supportive shoes. Be cautious of late-season wet rock that may increase slipping hazards.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat and enjoy morning sun on the route.

Wear sturdy hiking shoes on the approach trail due to uneven and rocky terrain.

Bring adequate water and a lightweight jacket for variable weather conditions.

Rappel from the top anchor for a clean and safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Big Squirrels Don't Cry presents a moderate challenge with technical balance moves on solid granite. The grade is consistent and feels true; the route does not overreach, making it approachable for intermediate climbers. Compared to other local sport climbs in Staunton State Park, this route sits comfortably in the middle—neither generously easy nor punishingly tough.

Gear Requirements

The route features 10 well-placed lead bolts and a secure top anchor. No additional gear placements are required, making it a straightforward sport climb.

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Tags

solid granite
sport climbing
single pitch
gentle dihedral
chickenheads
shade in afternoon