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Beached Whale: A Compact 5.9 Sport Challenge on Skinner Mountain

Denver, Colorado United States
bulge crux
hidden bolt
short approach
sunny aspect
sport climbing
single pitch
Length: 105 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Beached Whale (Unknown 2)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Beached Whale presents a short, dynamic 5.9 sport climb on Skinner Mountain, notable for its two distinct cruxes including a bulging headwall demanding precise technique. Ideal for climbers seeking a quick yet stimulating challenge with solid protection and a practical approach."

Beached Whale: A Compact 5.9 Sport Challenge on Skinner Mountain

Carved into the rugged face above Buffalo Creek, Beached Whale offers a brief but lively sport climb that challenges you to engage with both its physical and mental puzzles. At just over 100 feet, this single-pitch route sits within the straightforward approach and draws climbers eager to test their technique on a moderately stiff 5.9 line. The climb presents two distinct cruxes that require precise movement and route reading. The first challenge comes soon after leaving the ground, where a bolt lurks discreetly in a shallow dish roughly ten feet up, positioned slightly off the obvious line near a solitary tree. This bolt’s subtle placement can throw off your rhythm—if you choose to skip it, your path veers toward a broad ledge framed by a series of more visible bolts along the headwall.

Pressing on from this mid-wall resting point, the route tightens into a bulging section demanding a calculated combination of strength and finesse. Here, an inventive maneuver dubbed the “Beached Whale” move by locals makes its appearance, presenting a physical puzzle where momentum and body position come together in a dynamic flow. For climbers seeking an alternative, the original line offers a crack four feet left of the bolts, providing a more technical option to navigate the bulge.

Protection comes neatly arranged through six or seven bolts leading to secure double-chain anchors at the top. The bolts’ spacing invites a steady, confident pace while emphasizing clip efficiency and strategic rest spots. Given the route’s location on Skinner Mountain, the climb benefits from a south-facing aspect, often dry and sun-warmed during most seasons except the coldest winter days.

Approaching Beached Whale involves a relatively short walk through terrain typical of the South Platte region—pine and scrub brush brush the pathway as you navigate toward the creek’s edge and the base of the climb. The route’s manageable length and approachable technique make it an attractive option for climbers looking to add a quick but satisfying challenge to their day. With sixteen ratings averaging just above two stars, it remains a lesser-known line but one worth committing to for those intrigued by its quirks and the chance to own a unique move set.

Remember to bring footwear with good edge hold to tackle the steep bulge and be prepared for a somewhat exposed first bolt placement that calls for trust and route conviction. Timing your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon ensures the sun warms the rock just right, preventing early dew and keeping the surface grippy. After topping out, a short rappelling descent safely returns you to trailhead access.

Beached Whale rewards attention to detail and a willingness to puzzle out its moves. It’s neither imposing nor lengthy but carries a personality of its own, daring you to work through its unusual bolt positioning and distinctive bulge. A perfectly sized challenge that fits into any climbing day with a practical twist, this route blends the sport’s exhilarating rhythm with the grounded satisfaction of flawless gear and straightforward approach.

Climber Safety

Watch out for the first bolt, which sits in an uncommonly hidden spot requiring confident route reading. The bulge section demands precise foot placements—missed edges here can lead to swings. Always double-check your rappel set-up at the anchors and be cautious of loose rock near the ledge above the headwall.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length105 feet

Local Tips

Start slightly left of the first bolt to find easier moves and build momentum.

Use shoes with solid edging capability to manage the bulge effectively.

Plan your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon to benefit from sun-warmed rock.

Descend by rappelling off the double chain anchors; check your gear thoroughly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At a clean 5.9, Beached Whale balances moderate difficulty with technical cruxes that test movement more than raw power. The first bolt’s off-line position and the bulging headwall nudge the effort above a typical 5.9, making the grade feel just right for climbers comfortable on vertical terrain with some sustained moves. Compared to other Buffalo Creek sport climbs, it’s a compact option that demands focus but is accessible for many intermediate climbers.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by 6 to 7 bolts leading to double chain anchors at the top. Clip efficiency is important as bolt placements vary, with the first bolt positioned off the main line in a shallow dish. Bring standard sport climbing gear and be ready for a bulging crux requiring strong footwork.

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Tags

bulge crux
hidden bolt
short approach
sunny aspect
sport climbing
single pitch