"Amy, Good Gorilla is a bold trad line that demands steady offwidth technique and thoughtful gear placements. Located in Colorado's Cathedral Spires, this route offers a gritty single-pitch climb with a varied crack system and secure rappel anchors."
Amy, Good Gorilla cuts a demanding line through the stark granite faces of Cynical Pinnacle in the Cathedral Spires area, south of South Platte, Colorado. This exposed trad route offers sustained offwidth climbing that will test your technique and mental endurance, breaking the rhythm with sections of slab and chimney that require quiet focus and precise footwork. The climb stretches approximately 100 feet in a single pitch, rewarding climbers who seek the gritty challenge of awkward, jam-heavy crack climbing with the raw beauty of an alpine desert environment.
The route itself begins low on a striking crack and steadily progresses upward through ever-narrowing widths. Early protections demand larger cams—blues and greens of the Big Bro series keep you anchored safely as the crack narrows. As you gain height, the offwidth tightens into finger to hand-sized placements where #4 to #6 C4 cams find their place. Scouting placements along the journey, you’ll sling a chockstone and slot a 00 C3 to protect the more technical sections. The rock is solid but unforgiving; expect every move to demand commitment and precision.
At the top of the main crack, the safest approach is to veer right, where a flake offers a natural anchor for rappelling. This bypass avoids the more challenging and less defined upper variations that climb beyond the main crack—those remain uncertain territory, demanding both boldness and clean protection. Alternatively, bolts reportedly installed at the summit provide secure rappel points, as mentioned in nearby route reports.
The approach to Amy, Good Gorilla rewards patience: a rugged trail leads over mixed terrain that turns rocky and steep as you neared the spires. Expect brushy sections and loose scree near the base, making steady footing and sturdy shoes a must. Plan your timing to avoid overheating, as the south-facing walls bake during midday. Morning or late afternoon climbs offer more comfortable conditions and better light for reading the subtle features.
Being a relatively low-traffic climb with only a couple of recorded ascents, Amy, Good Gorilla retains a quiet, raw atmosphere. The climb doesn’t demand high star ratings to test your skills—it delivers real-world crack climbing challenges rather than polished sport pitches. This route appeals most to climbers who appreciate the satisfaction of threading gear placements carefully, feeling the rock’s pulse under hands and feet, and savoring the intimacy of a less traveled spire.
Prepare for a single-pitch adventure with gear emphasizing big cams and specialized crack equipment. Hydration and layering matter here—conditions can shift quickly with the mountain breeze channeling through the surrounding spires. Leave no trace, tread lightly, and honor the solitude the area offers. Amy, Good Gorilla promises an authentic and gritty connection to Colorado’s granite cracks for those willing to engage both mind and muscles.
While the lower section is well protected, the upper crack narrows sharply and becomes harder to gear—climbers should be cautious about pushing above the main crack without clear protection. The climb ends in a rappel station off a flake to the right; ensure your anchors are secure, as the bolts noted might not always be in top condition.
Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the south-facing wall.
Wear stiff-soled shoes or boots capable of edging on slab sections.
Bring a full rack with large cams—don’t skimp on #4 to #6 sizes.
Check for fixed rappel anchors at the top before climbing; you can use bolts or sling the flake right of the main crack.
A rack covering blue and green Big Bros is essential for lower sections, with larger #4-6 C4 cams required further up as the crack narrows. Small and medium cams like 00 C3 and slings for chockstones complete the protection package.
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