Standing at the base of Eldorado Canyon’s Wind Tower Southwest Face, Across The River From Butt Hair offers climbers a bold yet approachable adventure. Located just left of the imposing roof on the renowned Tagger route, this two-pitch climb mixes textured slab and open-book dihedral moves with thin crack work that tests both technique and nerve. From the moment you start on a thin crack or the adjacent slab, the rock demands quiet focus. The air here almost shifts, as the sandstone seems to challenge you with subtle holds and delicate placements.

Pitch one sets the tone, weaving between subtle flakes and a seam that’s faint from below but defined once you engage it. The climbing is judicious; well-placed thin nuts, cams, or sliders provide necessary security, though there’s a stretch of exposure where protection runs thin, particularly above the roof where the rock eases but anchors are less frequent. Climbers under 5’6” may find some sequences less forgiving but entirely doable with patience and thoughtful movement. Pulling onto the slab above the initial crack feels like a transition to a different rhythm—here, the holds are solid but not always obvious, rewarding those who trust their instincts.

Once on the slab, you have the option to swing right toward Tagger’s crack or stick to the classic line, moving toward a tree belay with fixed rap anchors. This spot provides a moment to breathe and take in sweeping views of Boulder spreading out below, framed by the canyon’s textured walls. The second pitch continues with steady climbing, offering better protection through thin cracks and offsets, before reaching an easy slab-turned-dihedral. Variations provide added spice: one includes pulling through a roof, nudging the difficulty to 5.9, testing advanced crack skills and body positioning, while another traverses a massive roof connecting back to Tagger’s third pitch, perfect for avoiding congestion or mixing up your route.

The routes benefit from the canyon’s natural dynamics — sandstone here feels alive, pushing you to stay connected to the rock, read the seams, and place gear confidently. The Wind Tower area’s openness means you catch sun or shade depending on the hour, often making morning or late afternoon climbs ideal to avoid peak heat. Approaching the base involves a manageable hike through classic Eldorado terrain, with well-marked trails and stunning canyon vistas unfolding with each step.

Protection on this climb is selective but reliable if you come prepared. Medium to small nuts and cams dominate, with slider nuts offering useful options where traditional gear might hesitate. Runouts above the overhang ask for mental readiness, balancing risk and reward. For climbers looking to deepen their skills or enjoy a quieter alternative to the busier Tagger route, Across The River From Butt Hair is a steady, thoughtful climb that rewards perseverance and technical finesse.

Whether you’re breaking in new gear or sharpening tradition tactics, this route holds value as a foundational experience at Eldorado. From the textured cracks to the confident slab moves, every pitch draws you into the canyon’s enduring character. Coming down is straightforward with fixed anchor rappels at the tree, making the descent efficient and safe, keeping your focus on savoring the climb rather than scrambling down. This climb is a chance to engage with the rock on its own terms, promising a clear sense of achievement and a solid introduction to the Wind Tower’s striking sandstone walls.