Climbing at the Columns in Eugene

Climbing at the Columns near Bend

Climbing at the Columns near Bend, Oregon, offers a unique opportunity for both novice and experienced climbers to engage with one of the area's most stunning natural features. This location, with its towering basalt columns, is not only a geological marvel but also a prime climbing destination due to its diverse routes and picturesque views of the surrounding landscape.

Vertical Pursuits: Rock Climbing at The Columns in Eugene, Oregon

Situated within Skinner Butte Park in the heart of Eugene, Oregon, The Columns offer climbers a distinctive experience on basalt formations rich in both history and challenge. These natural pillars, exposed during quarrying operations in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, have become a central hub for local climbers seeking accessible routes with varied difficulties.

Adventure Guide to Rock Climbing at The Columns

Key Facts:

• Location: Skinner Butte Park, Eugene, Oregon.
• Elevation: Approximately 480 feet (146 meters).
• Rock Type: Columnar basalt.
• Climbing Types: Traditional (trad) and top-rope climbing.
• Season: Year-round; optimal conditions from spring through fall.

Notable Routes:

• Bat Crack (5.8):
  A classic hand crack offering solid jams and a straightforward ascent, making it a favorite among climbers.

• Speed Crack (5.8):
  Also known as Sign Crack, this route provides a challenging climb with excellent protection opportunities.

• Main Chimney (5.7):
  A traditional chimney climb that tests a variety of techniques, suitable for climbers looking to practice chimney movements.

• Hard Lieback (5.9+):
  Offers a steeper challenge with engaging lieback moves, demanding both strength and finesse.

• Left Ski Track (5.10a):
  Features a mix of crack and face climbing, providing a well-rounded experience for intermediate climbers.

Approach:

• Parking:
  Located at the intersection of 2nd Avenue and Lincoln Street in Eugene.

• Trail:
  A brief 30-second walk from the parking area leads directly to the base of The Columns, ensuring easy access for climbers.

Historical Context:

The basalt columns were revealed between 1893 and the 1930s during quarrying activities that supplied materials for local construction, including the building of Willamette Street and the Shelton McMurphey House. Climbers began utilizing the site in the 1940s, and it has since evolved into a beloved urban climbing spot.

Tips for Climbers:

• Gear:
  A standard trad rack is sufficient for most routes. Many climbs have bolted anchors and chains at the top, facilitating easy top-rope setups.

• Timing:
  The west-facing wall receives afternoon to evening sun, making mornings ideal during hotter months. Be prepared for potential crowds, especially after work hours.

• Local Resources:
  Nearby climbing gyms such as Elevation and The Crux offer indoor options and gear rentals.

Safety Notes:

• Rock Quality:
  While generally solid, occasional rock breakage can occur. Notably, a large block detached from the route "Limp Dick," leading to the installation of a chain-link fence over the right half of the crag. The left side remains open and popular.

• Environmental Stewardship:
  As part of a city park, it's crucial to adhere to Leave No Trace principles to maintain the area's integrity.

The Columns at Skinner Butte Park provide a unique urban climbing experience, blending historical significance with a variety of routes suitable for climbers ranging from beginners to seasoned veterans. Its convenient location and distinctive basalt formations make it a must-visit destination for those exploring Oregon's climbing offerings.