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Jim Morrison’s Historic Linked Ski Descent of Everest’s North Face

Jim Morrison has carved a new chapter in mountaineering history by linking Everest’s Hornbein and Japanese Couloirs in a single ski descent from the summit to Camp One. This feat highlights the cutting edge of high-altitude ski mountaineering and pays tribute to the late Hilaree Nelson, whose spirit fueled this daring run.

Acclimatization Is Key

Spend adequate time adjusting to Everest’s extreme altitude to avoid acute mountain sickness and perform at your best during technical skiing.

Prepare for Mixed Terrain

Expect steep couloirs combining ice, rock, and variable snow; practice efficient transitions between skiing and climbing.

Monitor Weather Closely

Use reliable forecasts to avoid sudden storms; conditions on Everest can shift rapidly, increasing avalanche risk and reducing visibility.

Coordinate Oxygen Support

Supplemental oxygen can be critical above 26,000 feet; plan supply caches and use lightweight systems optimized for high performance.

Jim Morrison’s Historic Linked Ski Descent of Everest’s North Face

On the evening of October 15th, Protect Our Winters Board Co-Chair Jim Morrison made history by becoming the first skier to link the Hornbein and Japanese Couloirs on Everest’s formidable north face. From the summit at 29,032 feet, Jim descended to Camp One at 19,900 feet in just over four hours—a feat that pushes the limits of human endurance and technical skill in extreme alpine skiing.

This groundbreaking descent didn't come easily. It demanded three separate expeditions and countless hours fine-tuning the line, timing, and gear. The north face of Everest loomed as a fiercely unforgiving force, with icy chutes and steep terrain that tests even the most seasoned mountaineers. Yet Jim’s relentless commitment, combined with a deep respect for the mountain’s raw power, enabled him to tame the route that no one had ever fully skied.

Originally, Jim planned to take on this daring run alongside his late partner Hilaree Nelson, a fellow POW Athlete Alliance Member. Hilaree, widely regarded as one of the world’s top ski mountaineers, tragically passed in 2022 during a ski descent of Manaslu. Before beginning his descent from Everest’s summit, Jim scattered her ashes here, sharing a silent tribute to her courage and passion. This moment added profound weight to the accomplishment: more than a ski run, it became a deeply personal journey of connection, loss, and reverence.

Skiing the Hornbein and Japanese Couloirs in one continuous descent demands an intense technical skill set—navigating mixed snow and ice sections, negotiating narrow couloirs, and managing exposure to sheer drop-offs. With oxygen thinning and weather ever-changing at these altitudes, Jim’s rapid descent highlights not just physical grit but precise logistical planning and expert acclimatization.

Look out for the upcoming National Geographic documentary led by POW Creative Alliance Member and filmmaker Jimmy Chin, capturing the raw intensity and breathtaking scenery of this historic expedition. The film promises a front-row view of Jim’s journey on a mountain that challenges anyone foolish enough to underestimate it.

For adventurers inspired by Jim’s feat: Everest’s north face skiing remains an elite pursuit requiring intense preparation, expert mountaineering experience, and deep respect for the mountain’s fierce demands. Yet, even if you never ski its slopes, Jim’s story exemplifies how perseverance, partnership, and purpose can push the edges of what’s possible in the wildest places on earth.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Why does linking the Hornbein & Japanese Couloirs matter?

Connecting these two iconic couloirs in a single ski descent is unprecedented, representing a technical and logistical milestone in high-altitude ski mountaineering on Everest’s most challenging face.

What preparation is required for skiing Everest’s north face?

Extensive mountaineering experience, physical conditioning for extreme altitude, excellent skiing skills on mixed terrain, and acclimatization strategies are all essential.

How do weather conditions affect this ski descent?

Weather on Everest can change abruptly, impacting snow stability and visibility. Optimal windows are brief and must be seized quickly to minimize exposure to hazards like avalanches and whiteouts.

Who was Hilaree Nelson and why is she significant to this story?

Hilaree Nelson was an elite ski mountaineer and POW Athlete Alliance Member who partnered with Jim Morrison. Her legacy and spirit profoundly influenced this expedition, especially after her passing on a Manaslu descent.

Is this route accessible for recreational skiers?

No. This is an expert-only route demanding advanced technical skills, acclimatization, and the ability to navigate extreme alpine dangers.

What makes the north face of Everest so challenging?

Its altitude, steep icy couloirs, unpredictable weather, and complex route-finding all combine to create an environment that demands respect and expert skill.

Recommended Gear

Lightweight High-Altitude Ski Touring Gear

Essential

Gear optimized for steep, icy terrain that balances weight and durability; essential for efficient movement on Everest’s north face.

Supplemental Oxygen System

Essential

Reliable oxygen delivery critical for performance and survival above 26,000 feet.

Technical Ice Axes and Crampons

Essential

Necessary for climbing icy sections and navigating mixed terrain safely.

High-Performance Insulated Clothing

Essential

Layering system that retains warmth without sacrificing mobility in harsh alpine conditions.

Local Insights

Hidden Gems

  • "Tingri Valley for acclimatization hikes and views of Cho Oyu"
  • "The Rongbuk Glacier region, rich with historical climbing routes"

Wildlife

  • "Himalayan tahrs navigating rugged slopes"
  • "Snow leopards occasionally spotted at lower elevations"
  • "Tibetan antelope glimpsed near base camp approaches"

History

"The north face of Everest has long been a proving ground for pioneering climbers; the Hornbein and Japanese Couloirs were first explored by legendary expeditions in the 1960s and 1980s, respectively."