On August 31, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini achieved a remarkable free climb of the Identitat route on the west face of Mittlerer Zwolferkofel, a landmark ascent that came two years after Gietl’s solo first ascent. Measuring 500 meters in vertical limestone, this route is graded 8+/9-, presenting a fierce challenge that tests strength, skill, and mental endurance. No bolts were used in the climb and all pitons were left in place, honoring Gietl’s stringent ethic of causing minimal environmental impact. After the demanding free ascent, the pair descended by the more straightforward normal route along the south face.

The Identitat route is more than a climb—it’s a reflection of Gietl’s identity as an alpinist, shaped over more than a decade of preparation, perseverance, and respect for the mountain. Initially rated at grade 8 and A1, the route reveals itself as a demanding vertical journey carved into the famed Dolomite limestone. Its sharp edges and textured surfaces challenge every move, requiring climbers to balance precision with audacious commitment.

Mittlerer Zwolferkofel, also known as Croda Antonio Berti, stands at 3,011 meters in the Sexten Dolomites of South Tyrol, Italy. This peak forms part of the Zwolferkofel massif, with the main summit reaching 3,094 meters. The Dolomites have long attracted climbers for their dramatic rugged limestone peaks and complex route systems. Mittlerer Zwolferkofel holds a special place in this landscape, boasting routes that demand both technical finesse and alpine experience.

The mountain’s climbing heritage dates back to 1874, when Michael and Johann Innerkofler pioneered the first ascent of the main Zwolferkofel summit via the south face. Michael Innerkofler, a legendary figure in Dolomite climbing, also recorded the first ascents of the Cima Ovest and Cima Piccola in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. His legacy underscores the historical importance of this massif to adventurous souls drawn to its soaring walls and ever-present challenge.

For those planning to experience the region, the climb offers a blend of thrilling exposure, sharply carved limestone features, and sweeping views of alpine valleys below. The rock itself has a personality—fierce, unforgiving in places, yet beautifully sculpted by wind and time. The route demands respect but rewards with an unparalleled sense of accomplishment and connection to the mountain.

Descending via the south face after a demanding climb allows climbers to transition from vertical commitment back to safety while soaking in panoramic views of the Dolomites around. The forested approaches and open ridges frame the descent with nature’s quiet endurance, a final reminder of the balance between human endeavor and wild landscapes.

Adventurers interested in tackling Identitat should equip themselves with solid trad climbing skills, endurance for sustained high-grade pitches, and a mindset rooted in environmental awareness. The route’s commitment to leave no trace beyond fixed pitons epitomizes a climbing philosophy that blends boldness with stewardship.

Mittlerer Zwolferkofel remains a towering challenge and an authentic playground for climbers who prize adventure, technical mastery, and the legacy of alpinism. Gietl and Prandini’s ascent adds a new chapter to this mountain’s story—one where passion, ethics, and peak performance meet on slabs of ancient limestone.