Lalibela’s Christmas, known locally as Gena, is far more than a holiday; it’s an immersive journey into Ethiopia’s fiercely vivid Christian heritage. Each January 7th, pilgrims from across the country and beyond gather in this highland town near Mekele, transforming its rock-hewn churches into a hub of solemn worship, sing-song prayers, and ritual dances. The dry, cool air carries chants that cling to the jagged cliffs as worshippers clad in white shamma cloth wind through narrow stone alleys, inviting all visitors into a ceremony that pulses with ancient gravitas and living devotion.

The adventure of experiencing Lalibela’s Christmas starts with reaching the town itself, situated about 100 kilometers south of Mekele. Approaching by road, the shifting landscapes climb steadily from dry, sun-baked plateaus into greener, terraced hills. Elevation at Lalibela itself sits near 2,500 meters (8,200 feet), a factor visitors should respect when planning their trip, as the air carries a briskness that sharpens the senses but can challenge acclimation.

The core of the celebration is found within Lalibela’s eleven monolithic churches, carved from volcanic rock between the 12th and 13th centuries. Their rough exteriors belie intricate interiors designed for ceremony and reflection. During Gena, the church grounds buzz with focused energy—priests bearing colorful crosses, children racing with wooden staffs, and firelight flickering against ancient stone walls. Visitors can weave through these sacred spaces, mindful of both the spiritual atmosphere and the uneven terrain underfoot.

For those ready to step beyond the churches, small hikes around Lalibela reveal terraces and hilltops that serve as natural balconies over the town and its distant mountain ranges. Trails range from gentle walks across stone-paved paths to more demanding treks climbing 200–300 meters elevation gain over uneven terrain. These routes offer the chance to witness local farmers tending ensete plants, encounter grazing ibex daringly perched on crags, and catch moments of soft, golden light spilling over the Ethiopian highlands.

Practical preparation is key. Footwear with solid grip is essential to navigate rocky ground and slippery stone stairs in the churches. Carrying at least a liter of water per person and layering clothes for sharp morning chills followed by afternoon warmth will keep discomfort at bay. Arriving early on January 7th or even the evening before lets visitors witness the full arc of festivities from candlelit services to communal feasts.

This is no casual stroll but a respectful engagement with a tradition fiercely itself—ancient, living, and grounded in a community’s identity. Whether it’s the echo of chants against cliff faces or the slow cadence of prayer, Christmas in Lalibela invites visitors to walk, watch, and witness a celebration that shapes both landscape and spirit.