Bouldering the Buttermilks: Silver State’s Granite Playground

Bishop challenging Difficulty

The Buttermilks near Bishop, California, offer climbers a distinctive granite landscape where bouldering challenges shift with the desert sun. With routes suited for various skill levels and practical access from a welcoming base city, it’s an essential spot for adventurers seeking both thrill and technique.

Trail Tips

Time Your Session

Aim for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the desert’s harsh midday heat and enjoy optimal grip conditions on granite.

Bring Multiple Crash Pads

The terrain is rugged, and safe landings are vital. Multiple pads can cover uneven ground and protect against unexpected falls.

Stay Hydrated

The arid environment pushes dehydration quickly—carry at least 3 liters of water per person for any extended session.

Respect the Flora

Buttermilk’s delicate desert plants like junipers and sagebrush are easily damaged; keep to established trails and landing zones.

Bouldering the Buttermilks: Silver State’s Granite Playground

The Buttermilks, lying just west of Bishop, California, stand as a fierce monument of nature’s precision and patience. Here, granite boulders rise from the desert floor like giant silent sentinels, daring climbers to test their skills on surfaces etched with cracks, slopers, and crimps. Unlike typical mountain climbs, bouldering these massive stones offers intimate engagement — each move demanding control, creativity, and respect for the rock’s ancient texture.

Approach begins with a drive off Highway 395 followed by a short stroll across the high desert basin. The terrain shifts from sandy soil to scrubby bushes and singular juniper trees that lean into the wind’s persistent whisper. Within minutes, you’re standing beneath boulders as large as cars, their sun-warmed faces promising both challenge and reward.

Practical preparation is key. Bring climbing pads to soften landings, a chalk bag to keep grips dry, and shoes that balance sensitivity with support. Water is non-negotiable — the desert heat can drain you faster than the climb itself. Morning and late afternoon offer cooler temperatures and long shadows, making these the best windows for bouldering.

Each problem in the Buttermilks feels like a dialog with the rock — the sharp edges tease your fingertips while the broad slabs invite balance and strategy. The area ranges from beginner-friendly offerings to expert challenges that have tested even the world’s best. Respect for the environment is essential; pack out everything you bring in and steer clear of fragile vegetation.

Once the afternoon sun leans west, the Buttermilks shift again. The granite cools, the chill creeping inward as stars begin to edge the serene night sky. In this setting, adventure becomes not only about physical accomplishment but also about connection — to the earth, to the climb, and to the silence that only a fiercely honest landscape can offer.

For anyone looking to add variety to their climbing pursuits, the Buttermilks provide a practical yet thrilling experience. It’s a place where skill sharpens, respect grows, and every boulder tells a story written in etched stone and sweat.

Recommended Gear

Climbing Shoes

Essential

Precision footwear is critical for gripping small edges and smears on granite surfaces.

Crash Pads

Essential

Pads protect climbers from falls on rough, uneven landings, making them indispensable for safety.

Chalk Bag

Essential

Granite demands dry hands for reliable holds; chalk helps maintain grip and prevents slips.

Layered Clothing

Essential

Temperatures swing sharply; breathable layers enable comfort whether basking in sun or battling cool winds.

fall specific

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to the Buttermilks from Bishop?

From Bishop, head west on Highway 168 for about 6 miles, then turn right onto Buttermilk Road. The bouldering areas are accessible via short walks from various parking spots along this road.

What is the climbing difficulty range in the Buttermilks?

The Buttermilks offer problems ranging from beginner-friendly V0 up to expert-level V13 and beyond, making it suitable for both novices and elite climbers.

Is there water available on-site?

No. There are no water sources at the Buttermilks; climbers must bring sufficient water for their entire visit.

Are dogs allowed in the Buttermilks?

Yes, dogs are permitted but must be kept on leash to protect local wildlife and respect other visitors.

What wildlife might I encounter while bouldering here?

Visitors might spot desert bighorn sheep, lizards, and a variety of birds including ravens and hawks circling overhead.

Are permits required for bouldering in the Buttermilks?

No special permits are required for day-use bouldering, but climbers should check for seasonal restrictions and adhere to Leave No Trace principles.

Local Insights

Hidden Gems

  • "The 'Commandments' boulder offers excellent sunset views that few climbers linger to watch."
  • "Nearby Big Pine Creek trail provides an escape for a cooler walk after climbing."

Wildlife

  • "Watch for desert cottontails and curious ground squirrels that skitter near boulder bases."
  • "Golden eagles occasionally soar overhead, a sign of the region’s preserved wildness."

History

"The Buttermilks rest on lands historically traveled by the Paiute people, who respected the harsh desert as both provider and challenger."