Yak Crack stands as a time-honored climb on Yak Peak’s southeast face, a route that has drawn adventurers for decades with its blend of technical variety and alpine exposure. Its 14 pitches stretch across 1,600 feet of rugged granite, offering an experience that rewards steady hands and sharp route-reading instincts. The line begins near a massive offwidth dihedral, but these days climbers favor an updated start that veers left of the original to follow a finger crack ascending above a small flake—providing more consistent rock and cleaner movement over the first two and a half pitches. This approach eases you into the climb at a moderate 5.6-5.7, perfect for setting a solid rhythm before the adventure intensifies.

From Lunch Ledge, the route traverses left to intersect a diagonal crack system that winds back right across the face. The climbing here unfolds over a series of ledges, corners, and grooves that demand attention to footwork and body position without overwhelming the senses. The exposure grows as you progress, especially moving into the middle pitches where alpine character becomes pronounced. A tricky section around pitch seven-to-eight presents a rotten chimney that tests your patience and gear placements, reminding climbers that this is no casual scramble but a serious alpine climb.

Above this, pitches nine and ten lead you out of an alcove and along a right-leaning rib toward a cave, where an optional 5.11a finger crack sideline challenges those looking for a harder variation. Continuing from the cave, you lower slightly before moving right and then ascending into the giant dihedral that dominates the upper face. This final stretch keeps you alert with an awkward crux and sustained slabby climbing that demands focus through to the summit.

Accessing Yak Crack requires careful navigation on approach: scrambles up slabs lead you right of the main dihedral before a hard left traverse deposits you at a well-bolted belay station. This maneuver helps avoid unstable rock and reduces the risk of rockfall. The area sits in the Fraser Valley region of British Columbia, a location rich with alpine beauty and relatively moderate crowds compared to lower elevation crags. Ideal seasons for this climb span late spring through early fall when snow recedes and granite is dry.

Protection for Yak Crack includes a full rack up to 3 inches, with an emphasis on doubles or triples of finger-sized cams to protect the sustained crack sections. Most belays feature fixed bolts for secure anchors, but thoughtful placement skills remain essential given some rotten sections and loose rock patches.

Descending is straightforward: an easy walk-off follows the summit slabs back down to the base, avoiding complex rappels or exposed downclimbs. This makes the route particularly appealing to climbers who want a full day of alpine trad climbing without the added challenge of a technical descent.

Yak Crack rewards those who bring patience and preparation. The varied climbing styles, combined with the sweeping views of Yak Peak and the Fraser Valley below, craft a day where effort and landscape intertwine neatly. Remember to pack sufficient water and dress in layers—the mountain’s weather can shift quickly, and having a flexible approach ensures you stay comfortable throughout the climb. Whether you approach Yak Crack as a milestone climb or a solid step in alpine trad progression, it stands ready to engage and challenge, holding the spirit of the mountain in every crack and corner.