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Xenomorph at Deville Rocks: A Classic 5.9- Trad Route in Estes Park Valley

Estes Park, Colorado United States
trad
face climbing
multi-pitch
gear intensive
exposed
Colorado rock
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Xenomorph
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Xenomorph offers a dynamic trad climb at Deville Rocks combining technical 5.9- face moves with exposed corners across three pitches. Perfect for climbers seeking focused gear placements and varied sequences against the sweeping backdrop of Estes Park Valley."

Xenomorph at Deville Rocks: A Classic 5.9- Trad Route in Estes Park Valley

Xenomorph carves a memorable path along the southwest face of Deville Rocks, offering climbers a trad challenge that blends technical face moves with exposed corner climbs. Beginning on the left flank of the spire, the first pitch tests your ability to find solid stances beneath a small, stretched roof. Here, a tenuous clip from a precarious stance injects a subtle tension, elevating what is otherwise moderate climbing. The initial moves lead upward into a short 5.9- crux, demanding precise footwork and calm composure before easing into easier terrain and a well-positioned belay beside a large pillar. For those seeking variation, the first pitch can intersect with the opening moves of the adjacent Deville 3 route — a slightly gentler 5.7 face climb that stretches the rope further into Xenomorph’s territory, delivering additional length and enjoyment.

The second pitch really shines, ascending a left-facing corner that feels alive with the rock’s sharp, clean edges. After clipping a high bolt — your last piece of gear for a stretch — the hands-on 5.9- climbing hugs the formation’s northwest corner. The climbing here demands focus, as moves teeter between technical precision and bold exposure, rewarding those who glide through the delicate balance of control and risk. For an alternative line, step around the corner to tackle a thin 5.9 crack before rejoining the main route beneath the bolt, offering a refreshing variation in movement and protection opportunities.

Pitch three opens up three distinct options: a direct low-fifth-class scramble on solid holds; a traverse right to an easy left-facing corner; or the standout choice — a thin crack wedged between the two, presenting sustained 5.7+ face climbing with plenty of exposure. This final pitch often crowns the ascent with a satisfying mix of technical skills and scenic vistas, making the effort feel well-earned.

Protection on Xenomorph calls for a lean, well-chosen rack emphasizing thin cam sizes — placements are sparing and require thoughtful gear selection. While not the most protected climb in the area, the route’s blend of solid natural features and a few fixed bolts keeps the runout manageable for experienced leaders.

Positioned within the larger Deville Rocks area, this route benefits from the quiet grandeur of the Estes Park Valley. The granite here is steep and sharp, with broad views giving a feeling of climbing on the edge of the wild Colorado alpine. The approach is straightforward but demands attention to detail as it involves scrambling and route-finding across rock slabs leading to the base of the spire.

Ideal climbing conditions arrive in the spring and fall when temperatures moderate and sunlight casts long shadows across the walls, cooling the rock and enhancing friction. Early starts are recommended to avoid the afternoon sun and to allow ample time for negotiating the multi-pitch terrain.

Descend by rappelling from established anchors or by a careful walk-off along the southern ridgelines. Mind your footing here, especially if rocks have been loosened by seasonal freeze-thaw cycles.

For climbers craving a route that weaves technical face climbing, daring exposure, and enough variation to keep the mind active, Xenomorph delivers. It stands as a solid, three-pitch test piece for trad climbers familiar with careful gear placement and multi-pitch route management in an iconic Colorado setting.

Climber Safety

The route has a runout clip on pitch one that may warrant an 'S' rating caution; approach all gear placements and bolts carefully. Loose rock can appear near the base during spring thaw, so test holds gently and be alert on the approach scramble.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach involves scrambling; wear sturdy shoes and check route-finding notes.

Start early to beat afternoon sun, especially in warmer months.

Bring a double rope or long single to manage rope drag on pitch two variations.

Double-check anchors for rappel descent; some require backup knots or additional gear.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9-, Xenomorph’s difficulty is elevated by a crimpy clip from a tenuous stance on pitch one and a sustained 5.9- corner on pitch two. The protection can feel sparse, with critical gear placements that keep the route engaging for intermediate climbers without veering into overrun territory. Its grade matches other local classics in Estes Park but demands sharper technique to fully navigate the subtle cruxes.

Gear Requirements

Bring a light trad rack with emphasis on thin cams for tricky placements; fixed bolts are sparse so rely on clean gear to protect the crux moves.

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Tags

trad
face climbing
multi-pitch
gear intensive
exposed
Colorado rock