The West Ridge of Pigeon Spire stands out as one of the most iconic alpine climbs in the Bugaboos, British Columbia. With a length stretching approximately 1500 feet, it offers a distinctive blend of exposure, variety, and straightforward climbing that appeals to both seasoned alpinists and confident scramblers. The route’s crux doesn’t lie in technical difficulty—it mostly settles into sustained 4th-class scrambling—but the position along the narrow ridge and the panoramic views demand respect and focus. This climb guides you along a spine of rugged granite that rises above the Purcell Mountains, carrying you over two intermediate summits before claiming the main peak.

From the outset, the approach moves along the ridge crest, sometimes skirting just south or north, never losing immediate contact with the top-line. This constant edge walking gives the adventurer a constant sense of exposure, with drops licking the flanks and sharp wind pushing from all sides. Simul-climbing is recommended to maintain momentum without sacrificing safety; moving as a rope team allows efficient passage while still anchored against the alpine challenges.

After cresting the first summit, rocky slabs slide down briefly to a saddle, the low point between peaks. Beyond, the path climbs again toward the second summit, hugging the crest until a steep ledge forces a detour. Moving to the ridge’s north side, a corner pitches upward to the next high point. Here, brief but easy fifth-class downclimbing leads to a col that serves as the gateway to the final summit push.

The last section demands careful footwork and route-finding. From the col, you’ll veer left beneath the summit wall, following icy ramps before tackling a slab that angles upward to the right. Climbing this slab takes you into a chimney that spills into a loose gully. Upon reaching a distinct 10-inch wide left-angling crack, a short rightward step leads to a large flake and chimney, then back again to a 5.4 handrail feature. This final handrail extends roughly twelve feet, culminating in a reachy move to easier terrain guiding you toward the summit’s crest.

Descent options include retracing your steps down the ridge or opting for two single-rope rappels directly off the summit, lowering you back to the icy ramps where you begin your route reversal. This descent requires solid anchor placements, situational awareness of rock condition, and steady attention to avoid loose rock.

Protection on the West Ridge is minimal and straightforward. A small rack featuring nuts and cams up to three inches covers the needs for safe belays and occasional gear placements. This light rack is an asset when packing for an alpine day, emphasizing mobility over bulk. The granite offers solid holds that reward cautious yet confident climbing.

In essence, West Ridge delivers a climb where exposure is the main game, and technical demands take a backseat. The route is a testament to classic alpine climbing that offers commanding views and exciting terrain within a manageable skill envelope. Whether you’re looking to sharpen your ridge skills or enjoy a memorable ascent in one of Canada’s best mountain clusters, Pigeon Spire’s West Ridge is a climb that stays with you long after the rappel rope hits the ledge.