HomeClimbingWaiting for Staircase 1-3

Waiting for Staircase 1-3 at Arch Rock

Elevenmile, Colorado United States
face climbing
smearing
long route
sport
tricam
sunny exposure
Elevenmile Canyon
Length: 115 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Waiting for Staircase 1-3
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Waiting for Staircase 1-3 presents a trio of solid, well-bolted climbs on Elevenmile Canyon’s rock face. These routes blend balanced smearing with strategic placements, rewarding climbers with technical moves and over 100 feet of vertical challenge."

Waiting for Staircase 1-3 at Arch Rock

Set along the rugged walls of Elevenmile Canyon in Colorado’s South Platte drainage, the trio of routes known as Waiting for Staircase 1-3 offers a refreshing slice of sport climbing that stands quietly apart from its more famous neighbors. These climbs stake their claim on a broad face just right of the classic Staircase route, presenting nearly uninterrupted vertical terrain stretching over 100 feet. Each line shares a start point but then diverges into well-bolted paths that require both steady footwork and a calm head amidst some exposed sections. The rock, solid and textured, invites a mix of smearing and face climbing—there’s a tactile honesty under your fingers, combined with occasional subtle edges that demand attention.

The first two bolts are the crux, where the difficulty nips upward with moves that test balance and technique more than brute strength. Beyond these early challenges, the routes smooth out but introduce longer runs between bolts near the top, particularly on the right two climbs, encouraging climbers to trust their feet and manage rope drag with care. A 1.5 tricam can slot perfectly into natural fissures on these lines, giving protection options beyond the fixed bolts. The leftmost climb, closest to the original Staircase, pushes a bit further before reaching anchors, offering no obvious gear placements in that gap—though the rock below stays solid.

At the top, a pair of anchors marked by quicklinks waits just below a subtle overhang, out of sight until you’re nearly on them. These single stationary points serve all three routes, so coordination with fellow climbers is key when setting up rappels or top ropes. Given the length—115 feet—and the anchor configuration, bringing two ropes is advisable to ensure a smooth descent. The setting itself is unassuming yet captivating: a broad rock face that basks in midday sun and draws climbers who appreciate steady, moderate sport routes without flashy fanfare.

For those planning a trip here, the approach is straightforward but demands respectful attention to the natural surroundings and other visitors in this popular canyon. Footwear with good edging ability and reliable quickdraws will see you through the protected sections, but bringing a small rack, including the recommended tricam, elevates your safety margin. Hydration and timing matter especially in warmer months—these routes receive full sun for much of the day, so an early start is wise to avoid overheating. When conditions are right, Waiting for Staircase 1-3 provides a solid climbing experience that blends technical face moves with the satisfaction of long, well-bolted lines deep in Colorado’s climbing haven.

Climber Safety

The anchor setup requires careful attention: only two anchors serve all three climbs, located beneath a hidden overhang. Rappelling demands two ropes and clear communication to avoid congestion. The longer bolt runs near the top emphasize trusting your gear and footwork.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun heating the rock excessively.

Use a 1.5 tricam for added safety on the right two climbs where bolts are spaced.

Bring two ropes to rappel safely off the shared anchors below the overhang.

Wear shoes with solid edging to handle the smearing and face moves comfortably.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- grade is generally consistent with the technicality presented early in the routes, particularly between the first two bolts where the moves demand precise balance and foot placement. While not overly stiff, spacing near the top adds a trust factor that slightly raises the mental game. In the context of Elevenmile Canyon, these climbs feel approachable and moderate compared to more committing local routes.

Gear Requirements

Quickdraws are essential for the bolted lines, while a 1.5 tricam slots perfectly on the two rightmost routes to enhance protection. Bringing two ropes is necessary for rappel due to the length and anchor position.

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Tags

face climbing
smearing
long route
sport
tricam
sunny exposure
Elevenmile Canyon