Venom at Outhouse Wall, Lake Louise

Lake Louise, Alberta Canada
arete
pumpy
single pitch
extendable draws
exposed
midway anchors
Length: 110 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Venom
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Venom at Outhouse Wall is a demanding 110-foot single-pitch climb perched on Turtle Mountain’s challenging arete. Perfect for climbers seeking sustained pump and careful gear management in the heart of Banff’s wilderness."

Venom at Outhouse Wall, Lake Louise

Venom rises boldly above the rugged cliffs of Turtle Mountain, offering a single, unforgettable pitch that tests both strength and finesse. Situated on the exposed arete at the back of Lake Louise within Banff National Park, this route demands a climber’s focus as the holds grow scarce and the walls stretch outward. Begin your climb by following one of the routes below the arete–Mardi Gras offers an especially engaging start, though expect to manage some careful back cleaning to keep the gear in shape. The crux unfolds as you extend beyond the midway belay and push upward along the arete’s challenging prow. Long reaches between horizontal edges build a sustained pump that keeps your forearms burning and your mind sharp. The exposed nature of the climb means each move feels purposeful, the rock alive beneath your fingertips, sometimes slick with mountain air and moss patches from seasonal rains. At roughly 110 feet, the climb fits neatly into a long, fulfilling single-pitch adventure that climbers with solid 5.11+ skills will savor.

The logistics behind the climb are straightforward but require attention. A 60-meter rope is a must, both to make full use of the anchors and to lower cleanly. Expect to bring plenty of extendable draws to reduce rope drag and keep your protection solid along the arete’s protruding features. This part of the mountain stands quiet save for the occasional wind, and the vast views stretch out neatly from the backside of Lake Louise, affording glimpses of alpine forests and distant peaks as you climb. The approach is manageable and invites a morning start to take advantage of steady conditions before afternoon winds pick up. Footwear with good edging capabilities is critical here given the technical nature of the moves and the rock’s occasional slickness.

Venom shines as a challenging highlight among Lake Louise’s sport routes. It strikes a balance between pumpy athleticism and tactical gear management, pulling climbers into the mountain’s raw appeal while testing endurance and mental grit. Whether you return for a focused day of sport climbing or slot it into a broader alpine weekend, this line on Turtle Mountain embodies the wild, elevated spirit Banff is known for. Prepare well, climb smart, and expect a mix of adrenaline and accomplishment where every hold matters, and every move reveals more of the mountain’s stern beauty.

Climber Safety

Be aware the rock can be slick in damp conditions, especially on the arete’s edges. Lowering requires a full 60-meter rope to reach the anchors and descend safely, so don’t underestimate rope length. Watch for sporadic loose blocks near the base during approach and descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon winds that can chill exposed sections

Wear shoes with excellent edging for technical footholds

Extend draws carefully to prevent rope drag and keep the line clean

Prepare for a powerful crux with long reaches between holds

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11+
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11+ rating accurately reflects the sustained upper body tension and technical reach moves on this route. The grade feels spot on, with the cruxes demanding solid finger strength and flexibility. Climbers familiar with local Lake Louise sport routes will find Venom a step up in endurance and complexity, particularly due to the route’s tricky gear placements and the prolonged pumping sections.

Gear Requirements

Bring a 60-meter rope and a generous rack of extendable quickdraws to minimize rope drag along the arete and keep protection secure. Back cleaning is mandatory if you climb Mardi Gras to reach the midway anchors efficiently.

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Tags

arete
pumpy
single pitch
extendable draws
exposed
midway anchors