Uno Ojo Willy presents a focused and rewarding challenge for sport climbers seeking a short but technically rich route in Northern Mexico. The climb carves a path up a pocket-sculpted face, leading you upleft toward a sharp arete that demands precise movement and steady composure. At the crux, you must negotiate a subtle hop onto a narrow ledge, a move that shifts the momentum before the final section. This last stretch shifts gears into a technical crack-corner requiring careful jamming and delicate balance until reaching the secure two Fixe-ring anchor overhead. The 60-foot single pitch packs a variety of movement styles in a tight sequence, rewarding climbers who appreciate a blend of face features and crack tactics.

This route’s six fixed bolts offer straightforward protection, allowing climbers to focus on the climbing without gear concerns. The pocketed rock feels alive beneath your fingers, each hold etched into the face like a sculptor’s detail. The climb sits in the La Axila sector, part of a larger complex of cliffs near El Puente and Casas Grandes in the Chihuahua region. This area is valued for its quiet, rugged atmosphere and the opportunity to climb in relative solitude amid northern Mexico’s arid landscape.

Approach hiking to Uno Ojo Willy is manageable, with trails that pass through dry brush and scattered trees, making it an accessible day objective for those based in nearby towns. Early mornings or late afternoons offer ideal climbing conditions — the wall’s aspect shields you from the harsh midday sun while still receiving enough warmth to keep the rock dry and grippy. Given the moderate elevation and exposed terrain, bring plenty of water and sun protection to stay comfortable.

Climbing Uno Ojo Willy requires a sharp eye for technical details and steady footwork. The crux move onto the ledge, while not long, demands commitment and careful balance to avoid slipping. The final crack corner pushes climbers to switch styles, transitioning from face climbing to an engaged jam that tests finger strength and technique. This route is a solid option for intermediate climbers looking to push into sustained 5.10d terrain on sport protection without the complexity of multi-pitch logistics.

Local climbers recommend a thorough warm-up on easier routes nearby to prepare for the precise demands here. Footwear with a stiff midsole and aggressive edging will help with the delicate placements on the pockets and the arete. Since the anchors are fixed and reliable, descending is straightforward, but always double-check gear and rope setup before lowering off. With its combination of technical climbing and straightforward approach, Uno Ojo Willy stands out as a concentrated adventure worth the trip for sport climbers in this part of Mexico.