"The Cave in New Mexico offers climbers a unique limestone bouldering experience with shaded walls and challenging problems from V2 to V11. Its natural cave setting provides relief from the summer sun and a dynamic terrain shaped by freeze-thaw cycles."
The Cave, located in New Mexico's Albuquerque Area at an elevation close to 6,930 feet, offers climbers a refreshing alternative to the typical granite slabs sprinkled around town. Unlike the sharp edges of granite, this cave is carved from weepy limestone, a rock that reacts visibly to winter’s freeze-thaw cycle, reshaping routes from year to year and demanding a respect for its evolving nature. The setting is mostly shaded – a welcome retreat during the summer months when New Mexico’s sun can bake exposed rock into uncomfortable surfaces. If you’re looking to push hard in warmer weather, early mornings or cooler days when temperatures hover in the 60s are your best bet.
Arriving at The Cave involves a short, straightforward hike from the parking area: head south, descending gently across a stream bed until the natural overhang reveals itself immediately ahead. This approach provides instant proximity to a mix of bouldering challenges and a handful of sport routes anchored within the cave walls.
Throughout the main cave chamber lies a thoughtful spread of boulder problems varying from V4 to V9, peppered with eliminates, intriguing variations, and link-ups that cater to climbers seeking anything from a warm-up to a serious test. The standout Murray Pinch, rated V11, demands a tested pinch at the lip followed by delicate crimps, bridging the Football Problem and Reachy Sidepull sits nearby. To the left of the cave’s imposing roof, climbs become more approachable, ranging from V2 to about V4. However, it’s worth noting that this area hasn’t seen the same attention from the climbing community, leaving some problems a bit less predictable in quality.
One unavoidable aspect of The Cave’s character is the extensive use of epoxy on its surfaces – a controversial necessity preserving climbability on otherwise polished, worn rock. While opinions may vary on this, the outcome is undeniable: it opens up a distinct style of limestone climbing not often found in the region.
Classic climbs here include “The V3,” Football Problem, Crimpy V5, Aussie Rules Football, Pegboard, The Baseball Problem, Reachy Sidepulls?, The Schtick, Double Bump, Murray Pinch, and Blockade (the latter a sport climb rated 5.10a). These problems highlight the area’s range — from technically demanding finger locks to steep, powerful sequences — ensuring climbers of all skill levels find something memorable.
The Cave’s overall vibe is of a niche climbing venue suited for climbers eager to experience a limestone cave environment with a solid dose of challenge and variety while sheltering from the sun’s higher rays. Its proximity to Albuquerque makes it accessible without losing a sense of adventure, and the climbable rock in this compact area offers both bouldering variety and the rare presence of sport routes within the cave itself.
Plan your visit with weather in mind – summer days can be hot despite the shade, so aim for spring, fall, or cooler winter days. Bring multiple pads for comfort on the rocky approach and landings, and be prepared for subtle rock changes year to year. Crux sequences here demand finger strength and technical precision, making The Cave an ideal stop for climbers who enjoy exploring limestone challenges rather than the usual granite staples of the southwest.
In short, The Cave presents a climbing experience that juxtaposes natural rock evolution with human intervention, shaded coolness with summer exposure, and a handful of time-tested classics alongside fresh projects. From the well-travelled main cave to the less frequented left flanks, it’s a destination that rewards attention, caution, and a readiness to embrace a dynamic climbing playground.
Epoxy-coated rock is essential to climbability here but can be slick in places; watch for changing rock conditions due to freeze-thaw effects. Landings vary so sufficient padding is crucial. The cave’s shady aspect helps with heat, but humidity or moisture after rains can increase slipperiness.
Visit during cooler months or early mornings in summer for the best climbing temperature.
Bring several crash pads to accommodate varying landing zones and protection.
Check the cave after heavy winter freezes, as some routes may have altered holds.
Approach by parking nearby and hiking south across the stream bed directly to the cave entrance.
Expect polished limestone surfaces extensively treated with epoxy to maintain climbability, and bring multiple pads for bouldering. The cave hosts four sport climbs with fixed chains—Blockade being the only one listed. Finger strength and precise crimping skills will benefit most problems, especially Murray Pinch (V11).
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