"Typhus offers a compact, technical trad challenge on Plum Wall, featuring a mix of slab climbing and a gritty groove with sparse protection. Perfect for climbers who value precise gear placements and a secure bolt finish."
Typhus stands as a sharply defined challenge on Plum Wall’s rocky facade, beckoning climbers who are ready to engage with technical trad moves and a bolt-protected finish. This single-pitch, 75-foot climb begins on a slabby boulder that demands precise hand placements, particularly over a handrail section where a sizable cam placement becomes critical for security. From here, the route moves into a groove that tests both mental and physical steadiness — the protection here is sparse, and a fall would have serious consequences. This groove, though relatively straightforward in its moves, requires scrupulous attention from the climber, as protection placements can feel thin and trickier than they appear. After clearing the last secure cam placement — a 20mm camalot — the route veers left toward a series of four bolts culminating the pitch with a sport-style finish.
Plum Wall, located in the scenic Skaha region of British Columbia, offers an atmosphere that is both raw and invigorating. The rock’s texture ranges from friction-rich slabs to smoky grooves, pushing climbers to adapt their technique seamlessly. The approach itself is brief but steep, threading through fir-scented forest that sharpens focus before stepping onto the rock face. Climbers should be ready to manage varied gear with a mix of cams and nuts, sharpened by the demands of tricky placements nestled among the cracks. The setting’s quiet intensity invites a deep connection to the climb, where every move demands your full attention.
Preparation is key: sturdy footwear designed for small edges and slabs will improve precision, while a rack emphasizing cams from small to medium sizes will cover all protection needs. Climbers should time their ascent to avoid the midday sun, as the southern aspect heats up and can become slick with sweat. Early mornings and late afternoons bring cooler temperatures, enhancing friction and overall control. Descent is straightforward via a single rappel anchored at the bolt anchor, offering a swift and safe retreat from the wall.
Typhus isn’t just a climb—it’s a test of subtle balance and nerve, set against the backdrop of British Columbia’s wild beauty. Those who engage with it will find the route rewarding, both for its technical demands and the quiet satisfaction of mastering a climb where every hold counts. With clear beta and an understanding of the protection challenges, this route is accessible for climbers comfortable with mid-level trad difficulties and ready for a pulse-quickening exposure.
The groove section provides minimal protection, so avoid falling during this stretch. The handrail start requires a large cam for security; ensure placements are solid to prevent slips. Always inspect bolt anchors before rappel, as weathering can affect their integrity.
Early morning climbs optimize cooler rock temperatures and better friction on the slab.
A rack focused on cams from 0.5 to 2 inches covers all protection needs.
Stay clipped into the last cam in the groove to avoid falls in this poorly protected section.
Descend via a single rappel from the four-bolt anchor; double-check slings and carabiners before descent.
A mix of four bolts combined with varied cam placements defines the protection style here. Bring a rack with small to medium cams, especially a large cam to secure the handrail slab start. Protection in the groove can be limited and requires careful placement.
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