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Trads Gone Mad: A Bold Challenge on Croissant Wall

Cedar Park, Canada
sport climbing
dihedral crux
roof section
dirty rock
single pitch
Okanagan climbing
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Trads Gone Mad
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Trads Gone Mad on Croissant Wall offers 50 feet of intense sport climbing where technical moves meet unpredictable rock. With a sharp crux near the dihedral and a tricky finish over a roof, this route provides a focused challenge amidst the expansive beauty of Okanagan."

Trads Gone Mad: A Bold Challenge on Croissant Wall

Trads Gone Mad commands your full attention from the moment you clip in at the base of this striking 50-foot sport climb on Croissant Wall. Situated within Cedar Park in Okanagan, British Columbia, this route demands both focus and finesse. The journey begins by following the first four bolts of the established climb See the Light, offering a relatively straightforward entry that lulls you into rhythm before the route takes a sharp left turn. Here, the climbing shifts as you pull a demanding move into a narrow dihedral, the notorious crux that tests your technical ability and composure. The rock, coated with a thin layer of dust and loose fragments, warns you to tread carefully—footing is unreliable and requires deliberate placement.

After overcoming the crux, the line sweeps over a small roof where the holds challenge your reach and balance, pushing you to stay tight into the wall. The final meters reward with a steady push up to a single bolt and hook anchor, a clean but minimal protection point demanding attention to rope management and clipping technique. This climb strikes a balance between commitment and sport, calling for sport climbing gear but warning of dirty rock that could unsettle any climber.

Croissant Wall sits in an exposed pocket of Cedar Park, offering panoramic views of the Okanagan Valley’s shimmering lakes and pine-scented air that flows steadily through the trees. The approach is short but rugged, crossing forest debris and patches of tight undergrowth that signal you’re entering a wilderness playground where sleepers of the rock face test mental acuity as much as physical strength.

For adventurers drawn to that razor-edge between technical sport and trad-style challenges, Trads Gone Mad presents an accessible yet exacting experience. It’s a climb that rewards sharp focus, steady nerves, and the ability to read the rock’s subtle cues. Prepare for this climb with solid sport gear, double-check your anchors, and stay alert to the less-than-perfect rock conditions that could catch you off guard.

Whether you're tuning your lead climbing skills or seeking a straightforward, high-grade route in a stunning Canadian alpine environment, this is a compact but fierce outing that will leave you planning your next move well before you hit the ground.

Climber Safety

Pay careful attention to footholds near the crux; loose rock and dust make slips more likely here. The anchor features a single bolt with a biner and a hook, which may feel a little exposed for inexperienced climbers, so don’t underestimate the importance of solid clipping technique and controlled lowering.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Focus on precise foot placements; the rock tends to be dusty and slippery near the crux.

Approach early in the day to avoid heat on the southeast-facing wall.

Bring extra quickdraws to avoid awkward clipping over the roof.

Check the anchor hardware carefully before lowering or rappelling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:At 5.11d, Trads Gone Mad sits on the high end of the grade spectrum for nearby routes, with a crux that forces a commitment to technical body positioning and powerful moves. The rating feels appropriately stiff due to the combination of small holds, poor foot placements, and an awkward clipping sequence mid-route. Compared to other Okanagan sport climbs, it tests both strength and mental focus without overwhelming complexity.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by six bolts leading to one bolt with a biner and a hook anchor. Quickdraws are essential, and a set of medium cams won’t hurt if you want additional peace of mind on the crux moves where checking clips is tricky.

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Tags

sport climbing
dihedral crux
roof section
dirty rock
single pitch
Okanagan climbing