Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingThe Smiling Buddha

The Smiling Buddha: A Classic Trad Climb in Northern British Columbia

Terrace, Canada
finger crack
dihedral
small cams
bolted anchor
single pitch
Northern BC
trad climbing
Length: 115 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Smiling Buddha
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Smiling Buddha offers a balanced trad challenge on a single pitch in Northern BC’s Copper Mountain. Compact yet technical, this route invites climbers to master tight finger cracks and precise placements amid a striking alpine backdrop."

The Smiling Buddha: A Classic Trad Climb in Northern British Columbia

The Smiling Buddha greets climbers with a straightforward yet engaging challenge set amid the rugged wilderness of Northern British Columbia. This single-pitch trad route kicks off in a conspicuous right-facing corner system, where small cam placements quickly become essential tools in your gear arsenal. The climb then leans left, ushering you into a snug dihedral that demands precise finger locks and careful footwork along a series of flaring cracks protected by ten well-placed bolts, a rare blend of traditional and sport elements that add an intriguing balance to the ascent.

At about 35 meters, the pitch is compact but offers a concentrated burst of technical climbing that feels purposeful without overwhelming. The rock’s texture is solid, occasionally rough to the touch, providing reliable friction as your hands seek purchase amid the jagged edges. The surrounding environment adds to the experience—the towering Copper Mountain range rises behind, while endemic forests crowd the base, their whispers blending with the occasional bird call, reminding you that this is a wild place still largely untouched.

For those planning their approach, expect a moderate hike through terrain typical of the Terrace region—mixed forest trails that can be slick after rain, underscored by the crisp, clean mountain air that sharpens your senses. The bolted anchor system at the top ensures a safe and straightforward belay, while the climb’s moderate difficulty rating of 5.9 makes it accessible to climbers comfortable with basic trad techniques but looking to expand their repertoire.

Gear-wise, small cams are indispensable here; be sure to bring a rack with a strong focus on #0.3 to #0.5 placements, as the narrow cracks are not friendly to bulkier gear. The ten bolts protecting the dihedral section provide confidence, especially for those transitioning from sport to trad climbing, blending traditional challenges with modern bolting where protection is otherwise scarce.

Local conditions suggest that late spring through early fall is the optimal season, as the wall faces northeast and receives morning sun, drying out morning dew and warming the rock steadily. Afternoon shade helps avoid overheating on warmer days, making it a comfortable climb throughout the day.

Safety remains vital here—the compact nature of the corner means precise placements are critical, and the occasional loose flakes demand attentive cleaning and testing. The approach can be steep and slippery, so sturdy footwear and trekking poles can be worth the extra weight.

Confidence gained on The Smiling Buddha prepares climbers for longer, more committing routes in the Southern Dihedrals and beyond. It’s a rewarding climb that invites you to connect with the mountain’s quiet power and refine your trad skills before pushing further into British Columbia’s impressive vertical playground.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose flakes in the corner and maintain cautious testing of gear placements. The approach trail may be slick and steep after wet weather, so take care to avoid slips on descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length115 feet

Local Tips

Approach via mixed forest trails—expect slippery sections after rain.

Morning sun hits the northeast-facing wall to dry dew and warm the rock.

Check small pro placements carefully; some flakes may be loose.

Sturdy footwear and trekking poles help with the steep approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels approachable but demands attention to detail, especially in the tight finger crack placements. The climb is not overly stiff but features a technical crux within the dihedral bolted section that rewards precise footwork and balance, making it a good step up for climbers moving from sport to trad.

Gear Requirements

Bring small cams and nuts focusing on sizes #0.3 to #0.5 for the tight finger cracks. The route features ten bolts in the dihedral for added security along with a bolted anchor topout.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of The Smiling Buddha and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

finger crack
dihedral
small cams
bolted anchor
single pitch
Northern BC
trad climbing