"The Sewer offers a compact but demanding climb on the textured Unaweep Granite, where balance meets finger jams against a backdrop of canyon views. This route serves as a focused introduction to Jack’s Fortress, blending technical slab climbing with solid protection and an accessible belay from a pine tree."
The Sewer offers a striking introduction to traditional climbing on the Unaweep Granite at Jack’s Fortress, tucked into the rugged contours of Smith Wall. This single-pitch climb stretches 80 feet over a rock face that challenges both technique and composure. The route begins with a delicate 20-foot stretch of runout, slabby pegmatite that demands a keen sense of balance as your footholds whisper under your weight. The dark, solid rock here sets a serious tone, rewarding precise footwork with confident progress. As you move upward, the climb transitions into a sequence of fingers and stemming around broken granite features that sharpen your focus and test your hand placements. This section leads you to a second band of pegmatite, where hand jams offer reliable purchase and a rhythm to settle into.
The climb culminates at a broad ledge crowned by a resilient pine tree, offering a natural anchor and a moment to breathe in the panoramic view of Unaweep Canyon below. This ledge also serves as a comfortable belay station, signaling the end of the pitch’s demands. The Sewer functions as an alternate first pitch to the more extended Frontal Assault route, providing a concentrated experience of Unaweep’s granite personality: tough, textured, and quietly commanding respect.
For those planning their ascent, the route requires traditional rack essentials, including singles from BD #0.3 through 3.0 cams and a selection of stoppers. Protection placements vary, with the #0.3 Camalot fitting into a prominent crack early on, marking a pivotal security point after the initial slab. The belay can be set up at the pine tree or anchored with gear for added peace of mind.
Descending demands attention as well. You can rappel off the pine tree using a slung loop or choose to walk left and continue upward on Frontal Assault, blending this route seamlessly into longer climbing objectives. Approach the climb with sturdy shoes and a measured mindset; the slab’s runout section gives no room for misjudgment, and the broken rock invites respectful caution.
In summertime, the wall basks in morning sun, cooling progressively in the afternoon shade cast by rising canyon walls. Optimal climbing windows stretch from spring through fall, when temperatures moderate and the rock remains dry. Hydration is critical here—carry ample water and prepare for sun exposure on the approach trail, which winds steadily through desert scrub before tightening into a steeper climb toward the wall.
The Sewer is a gateway to the wild rock of Unaweep Canyon, where the river carves shadows and wind shapes resilience into every crag, inviting climbers to test their mettle on the edge of the Colorado wilderness.
The initial slab section is runout and demands controlled movement—fall risk increases here due to sparse protection. The pine tree belay is reliable but inspect slings and gear before committing. Watch for loose rock in the broken granite sections and approach cautiously, especially after wet weather as the pegmatite can become slick.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for precise footwork on slabby pegmatite.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat; the wall gains shade later in the day.
Slings for trees and extra gear for belay setups improve safety margins.
Stay hydrated and pack sun protection for the exposed approach trail.
Bring a set of BD cams from #0.3 to 3.0 and a variety of stoppers. Protection requires careful placements in pegmatite and cracks, with a key #0.3 Camalot early on. Belay anchors are available on a sturdy pine tree or established gear.
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