"The Great Concavity offers a gritty 120-foot trad chimney climb near Grand Junction where loose rock and wide cracks demand steady technique and smart gear choices. This route rewards those ready for a raw, hands-on climb through Colorado's desert edge."
Standing at the base of The Great Concavity, you’re immediately drawn to an imposing chimney that dares you to push through its loose, uncertain grip. This is no polished sport climb—here, the rock tests your resolve with crumbling holds and a gritty texture that feels raw under your fingertips. The approach to the route winds through the Palisade region, a slice of rugged Colorado terrain just outside Grand Junction, where dry desert air mingles with the scent of sagebrush and sunbaked stone. The chimney itself stretches about 120 feet, a relentless vertical seam that requires a steady hand and a calm mind.
The climb opens with a chossy, crumbly section that challenges your ability to read the rock and maintain balance on uncertain features. It’s a rough start, but once you gain the chimney proper, the moves become about sustained tension and smart footwork on a wide, loose crack system. The Great Concavity demands a blend of patience and boldness; every inch gained feels like wrestling with the mountain’s personality. Above, the wall’s exposure opens to sky and desert vistas, rewarding effort with a sweeping view that hints at the vastness surrounding Palisade.
Though it’s a relatively short single pitch at 120 feet, this 5.8- traditional climb isn’t to be underestimated. Protection is limited to gear placements, and the loose nature of the rock means you’ll want to pack solid, judgmental rack choices and a clear head for placing pro in tricky spots. The route’s reputation leans heavily on the grit of its rock and the need for thoughtful protection—this isn’t a climb to rush.
Grand Junction’s dry climate generally offers stable weather through spring and fall, making these windows ideal for attempting the route. Early morning starts are advisable, as the wall faces southwest and can bake in afternoon sun, turning already loose rock into a challenge of both heat and texture. The approach trail is uneven, rough terrain requiring durable boots and hydration, with about a 30-minute hike from the nearest parking.
Local wisdom advises climbers to keep an extra eye on rock quality, especially in the chimney, which shifts seasonally and can feel unstable after winter thaw or monsoon rains. Descent is straightforward but demands attention; rappelling is the safest option, using fixed anchors that should be inspected carefully before committing to your rappel. A slip here can quickly remind you of the character this climb demands.
In all, The Great Concavity delivers a gritty, authentic Colorado trad experience—one that pushes climbers into a dialogue with the mountain’s raw edges and variable terrain. This route is a nod to adventure seekers who favor challenges that blend mental calculation with physical grit on rock that won’t simply give up its secrets. The rewards are measured in technical growth and raw desert views, not polished holds or easy grades. Approach prepared, move cautiously, and savor a climb that feels like wrestling with the landscape itself.
The route’s loose rock requires constant vigilance—avoid pulling on unsolid holds and test every piece of gear carefully. The chimney’s wide cracks and chossy start can easily generate rockfall; wearing a helmet and communicating clearly with your partner is crucial.
Start early to beat the afternoon heat on this southwest-facing wall.
Double-check all placements in the chimney for loose rock.
Carry extra water for the semi-arid approach and climb.
Use a helmet; rockfall is a hazard on this crumbly route.
Bring a versatile trad rack focused on small to medium-sized cams and nuts to protect loose sections effectively. Expect to rely heavily on your gear judgment due to sparse fixed protection and unstable rock patches.
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