"Taiya (AKA Kia) is a sharply technical 60-foot sport climb set within Yukon’s remote Acropolis area. Featuring a demanding crux move and sustained crimpy sequences, it offers a concentrated test of strength and finesse amid sweeping northern wilderness."
Set against the stark and rugged backdrop of the Yukon Territory’s Acropolis climbing area, Taiya (AKA Kia) offers a focused, demanding push on vertical stone that rewards precision and grit. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 60 feet up a well-bolted face, presenting a sharp contrast to the vast wilderness surrounding it. From the base, the rock feels alive—cool to the touch, rough enough to grip but demanding on your fingers. The route’s highlight comes at its heart: a bold, iron-cross move that cuts through the tension of the climb and sets the tone for what follows.
After this crux, climbers engage in a sequence of technical crimpy lay-backs and face moves, each requiring careful foot placement and controlled body tension. The rock’s texture daringly invites strong fingers, while subtle holds force an attentive eye. Despite this, the concluding section relaxes considerably, allowing a breath and a strategic rest before finishing on a comforting rail that feels like a lifeline—a thank god moment after the intense sequence.
The approach to Taiya is straightforward but sits in a remote part of the Yukon, where the wilderness feels nearly endless. Climbers should expect cool temperatures, crisp air, and steady winds that carry the scent of pine across the crag. Given its northern latitude, daylight hours shift dramatically with the seasons, affecting the timing and conditions for your climb. Summer brings long days and clear skies, making early morning or late afternoon ascents ideal to avoid the direct sun that can warm the rock stubbornly.
Protection consists purely of bolts and top anchors, lending the route a sport climbing flow. The number of bolts is uncertain, so climbers should be prepared for closely spaced clips and assess gear placement with vigilance—though the solid bolting minimizes risk. Standard sport quickdraws and a reliable rope will serve well here.
Planning your session on Taiya means packing water, as modern convenience is miles away, and wearing shoes that balance sensitivity with support for edging on the small crimps. Given the route’s technical intensity, warming up on nearby climbs can prime muscles and fingers for Taiya’s challenge. Whether you’re dialing in your 5.12a fitness or seeking a fierce test in a striking wilderness setting, Taiya (AKA Kia) delivers a climb that commands respect and rewards focus.
Remember, this stretch of the Acropolis exists within a fragile ecosystem where nature’s raw force feels close. Weather shifts quickly, so staying aware of forecasts and having a flexible plan is key. The descent is a walk-off that eases tired muscles back onto solid ground but demand cautious footing on uneven terrain.
Taiya is not just a climb — it is a compact but potent encounter with Yukon’s climbing spirit. Prepare well, move decisively, and let the rock speak its challenge directly to your arms and mind.
Though well-bolted, the route’s isolated location requires climbers to be self-sufficient and prepared for sudden weather changes. The descent trail is uneven and can be slippery when wet. Carrying a helmet is advisable due to occasional loose rock near the base.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun warming the rock excessively.
Bring plenty of water—there are no nearby services.
Warm up on easier routes in Acropolis to prep fingers and arms.
Check weather closely; conditions can shift rapidly in Yukon.
Route is fully bolted with top anchors ready for rappel or lowering. Unsure on count, so bring multiple quickdraws and standard 60m rope. Sport setup demands confidence on clipped protection without gear placements.
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