"Sunglasses and Sideburns blends sustained face climbing with rewarding pockets along an 80-foot single pitch in Alberta’s Graceland Area. Ideal for climbers looking to sharpen technical skills, the route demands steady endurance and precision with a decisive crux near the top."
Sunglasses and Sideburns offers an invigorating sport climb set against the striking backdrop of the Graceland Area near Grassi Lakes in Alberta’s Bow Valley. This route challenges climbers with sustained sequences on textured edges and pockets that demand steady technique and strength. The rock here is compact and grippy, giving each movement a satisfying snap under your fingers as you ascend. The approach, threading through the crisp mountain air and towering limestone walls, preps you mentally and physically for the climb ahead.
The route stretches 80 feet on a single pitch, making it perfect for climbers ready to push their limits without committing to a multi-pitch venture. The crux looms close to the final bolt, requiring climbers to ration energy carefully so they have enough to power through the hardest moves at the end. It’s an encounter with the rock that feels both direct and engaging—the holds are generous but never simple, encouraging deliberate footwork and confident pulling.
Protection is robust with eight well-spaced bolts leading to solid anchors at the top, allowing for a safe and enjoyable ascent. The sport-style clipping sequence moves smoothly, giving opportunities to rest between challenging sections if you manage your pace well. This route is a strong option for those who appreciate climbs that balance technical face climbing with a touch of athleticism.
The approach to the base is straightforward; a short hike from the popular Grassi Lakes trailhead delivers you quickly into the Bow Valley’s quiet embrace. The trail is well-maintained, offering easy navigation and a sense of connection with the surrounding wilderness. Expect a mix of open rock slabs and shaded forest patches that cool you down as you prepare your gear.
Plan to arrive early or later in the afternoon to enjoy the climb with fewer crowds and optimal temperatures. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential to confidently stand on small edges during the crux. Drinking plenty of water before and after the climb is recommended, as the exertion demands hydration in this dry mountain air.
Whether you’re aiming to tick a solid 5.10c or simply looking to test your edge control and pocket skills, Sunglasses and Sideburns is a must-visit in the Graceland cluster. This route pairs a vibrant climbing experience with the practical ease of access in one of Alberta’s most scenic climbing corridors.
Watch for polished holds near the crux, where careful foot placement is essential to avoid slipping. The anchors are solid but be mindful of rope drag caused by the route’s natural line, especially if climbing with a heavier rack.
Start early to avoid crowds and enjoy cooler temps.
Wear sticky rubber shoes for better edge control on pockets.
Hydrate thoroughly before climbing; the air here is dry.
Scout the anchors before your climb for confident top-rope setup.
Equipped with 8 bolts and secure anchors, Sunglasses and Sideburns offers reliable protection. The spacing demands precise clipping to maintain flow, especially near the crux where pump management is critical.
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