"Stubborn Old Goat challenges climbers with its tricky start, reachy slab moves, and a crux left-trending crack near the anchors. Set on Old Goat Crag in Bow Valley, this 65-foot pitch offers both demanding technique and breathtaking mountain exposure."
Carved high above the rugged terrain of Alberta’s Bow Valley, the Stubborn Old Goat route demands a blend of steady finesse and calculated reach. This 65-foot single-pitch sport climb makes its home on Old Goat Crag, a climbing area famous for its striking limestone faces and fast-changing weather. The start is an uneasy dance of awkward moves, where balance feels fragile and every shift matters. As you move past this introduction, the route opens into a more flowing rhythm, though the rock remains alive beneath your fingers—rough edges and jutting holds challenge your grip and test your resolve.
About halfway through, the climb guides you toward a prickly slab on the right side. Here, reachy holds pop out, coaxing you onward as your arms begin to feel the burn. The final approach to the anchor zone reveals the route’s true heart: a left-trending crack that is often a deciding crux. This section demands precise footwork because footholds become scarce, and the handholds, while decent, are slopey and unforgiving. Managing endurance is critical here—pump quickly sets in, so plan your rests well before the clip. For those who find this passage daunting, there is an alternative: move slightly to the right and conquer a sequence of generous jugs before carefully traversing back to the anchors. This variation offers relief but comes with the risk of swings on the stippled rock below, an important consideration for lead climbers.
Protection is straightforward with 10 bolts and sturdy rings at the anchors, making it perfect for sport climbers seeking a technical challenge without the added load of placing gear. Yet, despite its accessibility, this climb demands respect: the rock texture is rough and requires careful hand placement to avoid abrasion, while the slabby sections engage core tension and balance over brute strength.
Situated at 51.0641 latitude and -115.4194 longitude, the crag rests amid the vast wilderness of Canadian Rockies, where the air carries the scent of pine and cool mountain breezes offer relief after sustained exertion. Accessed by a well-kept trail through mixed forest and alpine meadows, Old Goat Crag provides a wilderness experience with relatively easy approach logistics, making it suitable for climbers looking to blend adventure with practicality.
Timing your ascent is crucial: the west-facing aspect catches the afternoon sun, warming cold fingers and drying the rock swiftly after morning dew or rain. Early morning attempts may find the route chillier and slick. Summer through early fall offers the best weather window, when stable conditions bring clarity to the stunning vistas that unfold below. After the climb, descent is straightforward; a single rappel from the anchors drops you back to the base, though the rocky ground beneath invites a cautious foothold—loose stones and steep footing reward attention.
Whether you’re refining your sport climbing technique or chasing a crisp limestone challenge in one of Bow Valley’s classic spots, Stubborn Old Goat is a climb that rewards resilience and thoughtful beta. It’s a route that doesn’t just test strength but demands smooth transitions and mental control, inviting you to engage fully with every hand and foothold on the wall.
Watch your footing on the slopey slab section—footholds disappear, and a slip here can lead to a tough swing on jagged rock. Clip carefully, and keep your body close to the wall during the final traverse.
Start early to avoid slippery rock from morning moisture and catch afternoon sun on the slab.
Prepare for pump on the crux crack—practice sustained climbing endurance beforehand.
The alternate right variation before the anchors offers easier holds but introduces swing risk.
Wear climbing shoes with good edging capability to handle the near-absent footholds on the slab.
Equipped with 10 well-spaced bolts and solid rings at the anchors, Stubborn Old Goat requires no additional trad gear, making it ideal for sport climbers looking for secure clipping points. Expect some reachy grabs on rough limestone, with gear positioned to protect all the critical moves.
Upload your photos of Stubborn Old Goat and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.