"Stingo delivers a sharp, overhanging crack in British Columbia’s Southern Crags. This brief but punchy trad climb challenges your finger jams and edge technique on rock that rewards precision but demands protective gloves or tape."
Stingo stands out as a compact but intense trad climb tucked within the rugged confines of Southern Crags in British Columbia. This 25-foot route hits hard with a slightly overhanging crack that demands precise finger and fist jams combined with athletic moves on well-defined edges. The rock’s sharpness is immediately noticeable, delivering crisp friction but also a reminder to shield your skin — tape or crack gloves come highly recommended to protect against abrasion.
Approaching Stingo, you enter a landscape where the rock’s jutting faces dare you to commit from the first move. The crack’s angle pushes the difficulty beyond a straightforward jam session into a sportier challenge, requiring both technical finesse and power. It’s an ideal climb for those comfortable with finger-sized crack gear placements and eager to test their crack climbing form in a demanding but brief encounter.
The gear demands are specific yet manageable: a collection of small cams focusing on finger sizes, complemented by a Black Diamond 0.75 cam and a #3 cam for the larger placements; a #1 cam edges into optional territory depending on your protection style. Fixed chain anchors make the top-out straightforward and safe, allowing climbers to focus entirely on the moves without gear worries at the belay.
Located in the Southern Crags area of Skaha, near the serene town of Penticton, this route is part of a climbing zone where the rock’s character shifts from polished sport walls to rougher, rockier edges with steady protection opportunities. The accessibility of the area combines with its diverse climbs to offer an excellent day of trad climbing, with Stingo serving as a sharp, concentrated challenge that’s perfect as a warm-up or a quick mission.
Conditions here are optimal in spring and fall, when moderate temperatures and clearer skies provide stable friction on the rock. Shade hits the wall in the afternoon, which helps in warmer months, but early climbs may find the rock cool and inviting in the morning light. The topography favors a straightforward approach, with trails that weave through dry forest and gravel slides, creating a pleasant walk-in that sets the tone for the sharp focus required on the route itself.
Overall, Stingo offers a compact burst of adrenaline that balances the creative puzzle of crack climbing with the satisfaction of clean, secure gear placements. It rewards cautious but confident motion, and those who come prepared with appropriate protection and skin care will find this route a memorable highlight in the Southern Crags lineup. Whether as a crux session or a quick adventure, it captures the focused thrill of trad climbing without demanding a full day’s commitment.
Rock here is notably sharp, increasing the risk of cuts and abrasions. Protect your hands with tape or gloves. Gear placements, while generally solid, require attention to detail—avoid rushing placements on the overhang. The approach trail includes loose gravel patches; tread carefully to avoid slips.
Tape or gloves protect your hands from the sharp rock surfaces.
Approach via the established trail through mixed forest and loose gravel sections.
Plan climbs for spring or fall when temperatures stabilize grip without overheating.
Bring a small rack focused on finger to fist-sized cams for optimal protection.
Essential protection includes finger-sized cams, a Black Diamond 0.75, and a #3 cam. A #1 cam can add security but is optional. The route benefits from tape or crack gloves due to rock sharpness. Chain anchors top out the climb safely.
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