HomeClimbingStill Under the Moon

Still Under the Moon: A Crisp Sport Climb on the Southern Crags

Penticton, Canada
sport climbing
crux move
single pitch
technical finish
southern aspect
dry rock
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Still Under the Moon
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Still Under the Moon slices 30 feet of sustained, technical climbing on solid rock at the Southern Crags. Featuring a committing crux at the anchor, this sport route calls for measured moves that test control and endurance against the glowing Okanagan backdrop."

Still Under the Moon: A Crisp Sport Climb on the Southern Crags

In the rugged terrain of the Southern Crags near Skaha, British Columbia, Still Under the Moon offers a focused, adrenaline-spiked experience for climbers dialing into the 5.10d range. This compact, single-pitch route stretches 30 feet up solid rock, sitting high above the Okanagan’s warming light. From the ground, the climb looks deceptively straightforward, but the true challenge lingers near the top, where the crux awaits at the bolted anchor. Here, pushing through a technical sequence demands precision, body tension, and a good measure of commitment. The rock’s texture provides reliable friction, rewarding judicious foot placements and smooth hand transitions.

The approach follows well-traveled paths along the Southern Crags precinct, offering a brief but steady walk over rocky terrain sprinkled with sparse conifer shrubs and hardy grasses that push through crevices in the wind. The air carries a dry, warm scent typical of the Okanagan valley in late spring or early summer, with afternoon sun warming the rock face. While the climb does not boast sweeping panoramas, standing at the anchor reveals a quiet moment of confrontation with the wall’s subtle demands and the expansive valley below.

Climbers aiming to send Still Under the Moon should come prepared for a route that feels tougher than its grade might suggest. The final moves require a careful blend of endurance and finesse with no room for hesitation. Its four bolts and bolted anchor provide dependable protection, but the committing finish demands confidence in your ability to sequence moves under pressure. This is a route that favors controlled breathing and mental focus as much as physical strength.

Early season or late afternoon climbers will find the rock pleasantly warm to the touch without overheating, though the exposed southern aspect means mid-summer midday ascents might come hot and taxing. Always bring sun protection and stay well hydrated—Okanagan’s dry conditions can sneak up on you. Footwear with sticky rubber and a solid fit will help dial in technical footing on the thin edges and delicate smears.

For local climbers, Still Under the Moon delivers a pure sport climbing challenge within an accessible part of the Southern Crags area. It's an ideal route for climbers looking to sharpen their technique on a concise, intense pitch that demands concentration right to the last hold. With its straightforward protection and punchy crux, it pulls the sport climbing enthusiast back for repeats and better sends, carving out a small but memorable niche amidst BC’s desert-like rockscapes.

Climber Safety

The approach terrain includes some loose gravel patches—take care to avoid slips before the climb. The top anchor is solid but located at a committing crux; be sure you’re confident with lead headroom before committing to the final moves.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Approach on firm trails with some loose gravel; sturdy footwear is recommended.

Climb in late spring through early fall for optimal rock temperature and grip.

Bring sun protection; the wall faces south and heats up quickly in midday sun.

Hydrate well; the Okanagan’s dry climate can lead to rapid dehydration.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.10d, the route demands a concentrated effort on its final crux, elevating the perceived difficulty. It feels slightly stiffer than other local 5.10 climbs, particularly for those who prefer endurance over power. Climbers comfortable with short, powerful sequences will find it rewarding.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts along the route and a secure bolted anchor top off your protection setup. The spacing is straightforward, but the final moves near the anchor require confidence and steady technique.

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Tags

sport climbing
crux move
single pitch
technical finish
southern aspect
dry rock