The South Spire’s East Buttress stands as a formidable alpine climb, threading through the rugged backbone of the Nesakwatch Spires in British Columbia. This demanding route cuts directly right of the Priest-Coupe couloir, the rocky gap that separates Rexford Spire from South Nesakwatch. Beginning with a challenging snow approach that tests your stamina and winter gear skills, the journey requires a steady pace through steep, crisp snowfields. Early season conditions are key here: crampons bite into the icy ascent while axes carve secure holds, making the initial slog as much a mountaineering exercise as a climbing one.

Stretching across nine well-defined pitches and covering roughly 1,000 feet, the climb blends moderate 5.7 rock climbing with a few short bursts at 5.9 that can be circumvented for climbers seeking a conservative line. The rock wears the cold. Its sharp edges and cracks push focus and precision, wrapping each move in a cool, alpine air that sharpens senses rather than dulling them. Protection is straightforward yet demands preparation: a light rack from nuts to 3-inch cams suits most pitches, but bringing larger cams—4 or 5 inches—is vital for the offwidth summit section, which tests your flexibility and commitment.

Once atop South Spire, you are rewarded with imposing views across the vast Fraser Valley and nearby peaks. The descent often leads west into the wooded steepness of Nesakwatch Creek, a route that calls for attention and endurance, especially after the exertion of the climb. From there, retracing your steps back to a vehicle parked at Centre Creek can stretch the day fully into evening, making timing and pacing crucial elements for a successful outing.

In every step, this climb asks for respect toward its shifting snowfields and rugged rock—never underestimate the demands of the combined alpine and traditional climb. The East Buttress offers a rare blend of long alpine approach, technical pitches, and a remote setting that challenges climbers beyond mere movement, to adapt and respond to the mountain’s changing temperament. For climbers aiming to deepen their alpine experience in the Fraser Valley’s wild core, this is a climb that delivers both commitment and reward in equal measure.