HomeClimbingSouth East Face of Eisenhower Tower

South East Face of Eisenhower Tower: An Accessible Alpine Trad Adventure

Banff, Canada
limestone
trad gear
alpine
exposed ridge
multi-lead
moderate difficulty
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
South East Face of Eisenhower Tower
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Explore the South East Face of Eisenhower Tower, an approachable alpine trad climb in Banff National Park. Easy but exposed climbing on solid limestone invites a rewarding experience for intermediate adventurers seeking a genuine Rockies challenge."

South East Face of Eisenhower Tower: An Accessible Alpine Trad Adventure

The South East Face of Eisenhower Tower offers a distinctive alpine climbing experience amid the rugged limestone of the Canadian Rockies, situated within the vast wilderness of Banff National Park. This route begins at the Dragon's Back, a sharp, narrow buttress extending from the tower’s base that sets the stage for an exposed yet manageable ascent. Starting on the left side of this natural prow, climbers follow a short chimney and gully section roughly 5 to 10 meters in height to reach a bolted rappel anchor that marks the first technical milestone. From here, the route leads along the Dragon's Back itself, where granite-hard holds present an easy but distinctly airy ridge traverse that tests your focus as much as your moves. The narrow spine drops off steeply, creating a thrilling exposure that keeps the senses sharp.

Once reaching the base of the main southeast face, a small gap separates the Dragon's Back from the vertical wall. Descending carefully into this recess reveals a choice: a steep crack to climb directly up or an adjacent face to the left offering good holds. Both lines are short but engaging, ending at a pair of bolted rappel anchors atop the wall. The climb continues past this point, moving upward along a steeper wall section that features two more bolted anchors before culminating at a final anchor at the top of the cliff. Here, the landscape unfolds into a scree bowl on your left, offering a natural resting spot and a crossing point to decide the final variation.

The climb branches into two options beyond the scree bowl. The Right Variation, recommended for those seeking a longer and slightly more challenging experience, climbs several additional leads along a prominent rib, pushing grades up to 5.7. Although not personally documented, this route promises steady alpine exposure with progressively sustained difficulties. Alternatively, the Left Variation takes a more direct path crossing the scree and ascending a rib to the left, wrapping up the climb in one to two leads with manageable terrain. Both options conclude with a steep final section protected by three bolted anchors, guiding climbers to the summit of Eisenhower Tower.

The limestone here is notably reliable and well-formed, a pleasant surprise in the Rockies, providing solid holds and consistent edges. The route requires conventional trad gear for protection, although specific recommendations are scarce. Expect to place medium-sized cams and nuts carefully throughout the less bolted sections, while relying on fixed anchors for rappels. The exposure and alpine environment demand climbers bring layers for rapidly changing weather, sturdy footwear with good edging ability, and a helmet for rockfall. Early summer through early fall offers the best climbing window, with longer daylight hours and more stable conditions.

Accessing Eisenhower Tower is straightforward for an alpine approach: a moderate hike from the Castle Mountain trailhead through subalpine fir and larch forests opens views across rugged peaks and valleys. The approach trail leads to the base of the Dragon's Back in just under an hour, offering a chance to transition smoothly from hiking boots to climbing shoes. This manageable yet wild setting invites climbers of intermediate skill levels to enjoy high alpine terrain without excessive technical demands or committing to prolonged multi-pitch routes.

As you climb, the wind speaks across the limestone, urging climbers onward, while the surrounding peaks keep a watchful silence. The South East Face is a blend of careful footwork, mental focus, and respect for the mountain’s enduring presence. Equipped with solid beta, route awareness, and a readiness to adjust to alpine conditions, climbers will find this route a rewarding introduction to the challenges and beauty of Banff National Park’s climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Rockfall risk is moderate; wear a helmet and stay alert during approach and descent. Some sections require careful downclimbing or delicate moves near bolted anchors. Pay attention to weather forecasts to avoid sudden storms common at higher elevations.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid afternoon weather shifts typical in the Rockies.

Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes for precise edging on limestone edges.

Carry extra water and layers; alpine conditions can change rapidly.

Scout the Dragon's Back ridge carefully before committing, as exposure demands focus.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:At 5.6, this climb presents a comfortable grade with moments of exposure that mentally elevate the challenge. The pitches offer solid holds and straightforward moves without tricky technical cruxes, but the sustained exposure can feel demanding for newer climbers. Compared to other routes in Banff, it represents a sweet spot for those transitioning into alpine trad climbing.

Gear Requirements

The route calls for traditional protection, with medium-sized cams and nuts essential for anchoring on the less equipped sections. Fixed bolted rappel anchors protect key transitions, but bring a full trad rack and strong anchor-building skills.

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Tags

limestone
trad gear
alpine
exposed ridge
multi-lead
moderate difficulty