The South Buttress on Mt. Loki stands as a striking alpine climb carved out of the wild Baffin Mountains, a place where solitude blends with the raw power of unyielding granite. This route stretches over 2000 feet and offers a sustained challenge across 14 pitches that demand technical precision and mental grit. From the lower slopes, the ascent begins on loose, dirty terrain that requires careful navigation toward one of the long corner systems. These first pitches, while lower in technical difficulty (5.7 to 5.8), set the stage for what comes next—a progression into spectacular, continuous corner climbing where granite walls push you to maintain focus and composure.

Midway through the climb, the South Buttress reveals its true character with sustained 5.9 to 5.10 grades that stretch over six demanding pitches. Climbing here is intense and engaging: powerful jams and finger locks in clean, high-quality granite force you into a rhythm, interrupted occasionally by short traverses that challenge footwork and route-finding skills. The climbing never truly eases until near the top, where the terrain loosens and allows some relief before reaching the summit.

This route is far from crowded. Its location on remote Mt. Loki, tucked deep in the Nunavut arctic wilderness, requires commitment and planning. The wall is a vast granite spine that calls to experienced alpine climbers comfortable with multi-pitch trad routes and snow approaches. The recommended protection setup includes doubles up to size 3 cams with a single size 4 for the occasional wider crack. Each pitch stretches close to 70 meters, so a full 70-meter rope is essential to work the length and efficiency of the climb.

Approaching the South Buttress involves navigating rough, snowy terrain typical of the high arctic summer, where changing weather and rock conditions demand a flexible plan. Timing your ascent to avoid late-season rockfall or unstable snow patches is critical. The descent is a serious undertaking, requiring 15 rappels often aided by fixed anchors, though some stations may require placing your own gear. Precision in rope management here is as vital as on the ascent.

Mt. Loki’s South Buttress shares the quality of climbing and length reminiscent of classic alpine routes, such as the Beckey-Chouinard in the Bugaboos, offering a rugged yet gratifying experience that’s better than other local lines like the Scott Route on Asgard. This climb rewards sustained effort with sweeping views of the Baffin wilderness, where glaciers above and vast tundra below remind you of nature’s scale and your place within it.

In all, the South Buttress is an exceptional adventure for climbers seeking a remote, high-quality alpine outing. It balances the thrill of serious climbing with the beauty of an untouched environment. When planning your trip, prepare for demanding rock pitches, snow travel, and a demanding descent, all while embracing the remote purity of Nunavut’s high mountain wilderness.