"Sloth Corner presents a slick splitter hand crack that challenges climbers to master delicate jams and friction moves through an engaging overhanging roof. Set on the Tower of Tails wall, this single-pitch trad climb is perfect for those seeking technical precision and solid gear placements in British Columbia’s rugged outdoors."
Sloth Corner offers an intense, hands-on trad climb that demands both finesse and resolve. Right from the start, this 60-foot pitch presents a splitter hand crack that slants upward with an inviting overhang, teasing climbers with a blend of technical jamming and friction moves on the adjacent walls. Foot holds are sparse, so you’ll find yourself relying on precise finger and hand jams as well as delicate smears to ascend smoothly. The climb asks for careful placement and body positioning, especially moving through the crux roof section approximately ten feet off the ground—a move that is just hard enough to sharpen your focus yet accessible to seasoned climbers who enjoy finger cracks.
After conquering the roof, the crack opens into a more straightforward jam section with consistent protection opportunities. The rock quality keeps the confidence high, and the steady rhythm of placing gear combined with the satisfying feel of locking your hand into solid jams provides both mental and physical engagement. You can choose your own adventure here, either launching from the precise base of the crack to maximize challenge and fun or beginning on a comfortable ledge partway up for a slightly less committing start.
Protection recommendations favor small to medium cams, with a staple set of a small range supplemented by an extra Black Diamond #2 and #3 cam for redundancy and smoother placements. Long slings are essential, particularly if you’re establishing a top rope setup, to avoid rope drag along the line’s natural sweep. The Tower of Tails area in British Columbia delivers a quiet yet rugged climbing atmosphere, where the surrounding forest and crisp mountain air keep focus razor-sharp. Approach paths and surrounding terrain maintain a wild feel, rewarding climbers seeking a route that blends technical tradition with isolated outdoor experience.
Timing your climb during the warmer months offers the best chance for dry cracks and comfortable temperatures. Early morning starts help you avoid the midday sun on exposed faces while catching the walls in gentle shade. The climb’s orientation brings the sun gradually around during the afternoon, warming the rock gently but never enough to sap your grip.
Rappelling off the route or downclimbing carefully are both viable descent options; however, climbers should watch for loose blocks near the top and consider using doubled ropes for secure rappel anchor management. Sloth Corner carries the spirit of classic crack climbing with a modern twist—a demanding, hands-filled puzzle that rewards focus, skill, and patience.
Be attentive to the limited footholds; reliance on precise hand jams is critical to maintain balance. Loose rock near the top requires caution, and long slings should be used to reduce rope drag and protect against gear walking and potential fallout.
Begin from the base of the crack for the full technical experience or start on the small ledge for a less committing start.
Bring extra slings to extend protection and avoid rope drag around the roof feature.
Plan an early morning ascent to climb in cooler shade before the sun warms the wall.
Inspect anchor points carefully—some loose blocks can be found near the top.
Small to medium cams dominate the gear lineup here, with a standard rack supplemented by a Black Diamond #2 and #3 cam for added security. Long slings are highly recommended to manage rope drag, especially if you plan to set up a top rope.
Upload your photos of Sloth Corner and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.