Sick & Twisted carves a dynamic route up Eastpost Spire in the heart of British Columbia’s Bugaboos, offering climbers a sharp blend of technical trad moves and alpine exposure. This five-pitch climb demands focus and fluidity, rewarding those willing to test their limits against rock that is still settling into place. The climb’s character is defined by a gritty charm—some sections of crumbly stone add an unpredictable edge, challenging both your gear placements and your mental game. Despite this, the route presents an accessible half-day excursion for those feeling the itch to push into harder terrain without committing to a full alpine expedition. Approaching from Applebee Hut, the walk is brief—around fifteen minutes—and early starts bring welcome shade to the route’s initial pitches.

The first pitch immediately announces itself as the crux, beginning at 5.12a with a decomposing crack that leads to an overhanging roof. The moves here require delicate footwork and decisive hand jams, especially as you navigate the roof to reach a bolted semi-hanging belay. Four well-placed bolts offer critical protection, but the loose rock means you’ll want to move confidently and with care to prevent dislodging holds. Pitch two maintains intensity with an intricate chimney system demanding strong underclings and precise crimping as you traverse a massive roof. This section tests your gear placements in tight spaces before easing to a bolted ledge.

From here, the climb shifts character slightly. Pitch three flows up a steep left-facing flake crack, with a breath-catching traverse on a ledge that leads to a prominent slab—one that hangs over you, teasing balance and nerve. Pitch four is notable for its exposure along the lip of this hanging slab. While the technical grade remains near 5.10d, the unstable holds push the challenge higher, requiring careful reading of the rock to stay in control. The final pitch focuses on steady crack climbing through a line of parallel fissures, finishing below the ridge crest at a solid bolted anchor.

Descending Sick & Twisted requires experience and attention. Most choose to rappel from the top, using a 70m rope for four distinct rappels. Each rappel presents its own nuances—the anchors are generally solid but occasionally difficult to locate, especially the mid-rappel stations across an expansive slab. Bringing extra quicklinks and rings can simplify these transitions. Alternatively, a walk off is possible, but it demands comfort with exposed terrain and route-finding skills.

Gear recommendations highlight a collection of technical cams—ranging from a Blue Alien to #2 Camalots—paired with stoppers for smaller placements. Given the mixed condition of the rock, solid pro placement is essential for safety and confidence on the steeper pitches.

Eastpost Spire, sitting high in the Bugaboos within the Purcell Mountains, offers stunning alpine vistas that pulse with raw mountain spirit. The route’s west-facing aspect suggests climbing in the early hours before the rock heats up, especially during summer months. Weather in this alpine zone can shift quickly; a quick descent route is a plus for those scouting a half-day adventure or faced with sudden changes.

Sick & Twisted isn’t just a climb—it’s a call to move boldly through a landscape still in flux, where the rock challenges you equally as much as the setting demands respect. Prepare well, approach early, and savor every move of this slightly rough-edged alpine route.