HomeClimbingShake That Ass

Shake That Ass at Sticks and Dicks Tower

Grand Junction, Colorado USA
solid granite
finger crack
splitter
granite face
single pitch
trad climbing
Colorado
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Shake That Ass
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Shake That Ass delivers a rewarding single-pitch trad climb on the robust granite of Sticks and Dicks Tower. With solid jams, confident face moves, and a well-protected splitter finish, this route invites climbers to experience the original ascent line in the dramatic Unaweep Canyon."

Shake That Ass at Sticks and Dicks Tower

Shake That Ass remains the classic first ascent route on Sticks and Dicks Tower, a striking granite formation tucked within the rugged expanse of Unaweep Canyon near Grand Junction, Colorado. This single-pitch trad climb offers an unpretentious yet rewarding challenge that draws a broad spectrum of climbers eager to experience the original line up the tower’s face. From the approach, the granite boasts a solid texture with features that invite secure jams and confident smears.

The climb starts by committing to either the northeast arete or the tight northern squeeze chimney, both routes converging onto a ledge positioned just below the splitter crack on the tower’s imposing east face. Here, the rock presents a mix of jams and face moves, requiring climbers to balance technique with steady headway. The splitter itself demands finger-to-hand-sized gear placements, offering protection up to around 2.5 inches, and culminates at a two-bolt anchor that's thoughtfully set back to create an ideal belay stance.

The granite feels solid underfoot and hand, but climbers should be ready for subtle variations in texture and occasional lichen patches in shaded spots. The route’s 50-foot height can be quickly dispatched, yet every move demands focus, especially considering the sparse crowding this area sees. The setting inside the canyon creates a natural amphitheater experience where the towering rock and surrounding canyon walls frame the climb, while gentle breezes rustle through juniper and pinyon pine nearby.

Approach involves a short hike from the main canyon access, crossing easy talus fields and low scrub. Given the elevation and southwest-facing aspect, the climb is best tackled during cooler parts of the day in spring and fall, when the sun isn’t directly baking the rock. Hydration and protection against sun exposure remain key considerations despite the shade offered by the formation itself.

Shake That Ass is ideal for adventurous climbers seeking a straightforward yet engaging trad line with solid protection and scenic isolation. The nearby Grand Junction area provides ample opportunities for longer adventures, but this climb stands out as a compact introduction to the unique Unaweep granite, blending technical moves with pleasing exposure.

Gear wise, a standard trad rack to 2.5-inch cams and nuts will comfortably secure the route, with the two-bolt anchor offering peace of mind for top belays and lowering. The climb’s 5.9- rating feels fair, with a noticeable crux at the splitter’s start, testing finger strength and sequence reading but not exceeding the grade’s intent. For climbers acquainted with local classic routes, Shake That Ass offers an approachable but distinct southwest Colorado experience.

Plan your timing carefully: mid to late spring or early fall provides the most stable weather and comfortable temperature. Avoid summer midday heat when the rock becomes uncomfortably hot. Downclimbing is straightforward from the anchor, but rappelling is recommended for safer retrieval.

Whether you’re visiting to tick a historic first ascent or seeking a clean granite challenge, this climb rewards with its blend of exposure, solid protection, and tactile granite movement. Shake That Ass opens a window into the rugged spirit of Unaweep Canyon’s climbing scene, where every placement and jam propels you upward against the backdrop of vast mesas and canyon cliffs.

Climber Safety

While the rock is generally solid, watch for occasional lichen patches near the shaded northern squeeze. The anchor is set back well, but descending via rappel is advised to avoid tricky downclimb sections with loose rock.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach via talus slopes from main canyon access; expect about a 15-minute hike.

Early morning or late afternoon climbs help avoid peak sun exposure on the east face.

Bring sun protection and plenty of water, as shade is limited outside the climb itself.

Rappel from the two-bolt anchor for a safe and straightforward descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating reflects the engaging but approachable nature of Shake That Ass. The crux centers on the splitter’s start, where precise finger locks and jams test strength and technique without feeling overly stiff. Compared to nearby local classics, this route feels true to grade and offers a solid introduction to Unaweep’s granite style.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to 2.5-inch cams recommended to cover the splitter pitch. Two-bolt anchor provides secure top belay or rappel point.

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Tags

solid granite
finger crack
splitter
granite face
single pitch
trad climbing
Colorado