"Secret Cliffs presents a sunny, quiet climbing destination in California’s Eastern Sierra, offering a smooth mix of sport and trad routes from 5.8 to 5.12. Its south-facing wall and commanding roof feature reward those willing to hike and scramble for a day of varied challenges with minimal crowds."
Secret Cliffs offers an inviting stretch of sunlit rock high above the Eastern Sierra’s Pine Creek Canyon. This secluded wall blends sport and trad routes, ranging predominantly from 5.8 up to 5.12, making it a solid destination for climbers aiming to test a spectrum of skills without contending with crowds. The climb demands some commitment — a short but engaging hike and light scrambling set the tone before you even grasp the first holds. This effort earns you a quiet, nearly private venue, highlighted by a striking roof formation that dominates the cliff’s profile and beckons you to explore its challenges.
The approach to Secret Cliffs is straightforward but requires readiness for dirt-road driving and a brief scramble. After 7.7 miles along Pine Creek Road, veer right across from the campground onto a dirt road. A quick left at the fork leads you to a small parking area just feet below the south-facing cliff. From here, climbers ascend right and slightly upward along a path that demands some hands-on movement—the easiest approach route lies along the cliff’s right edge, offering a manageable scramble to the base of the climbs. This thoughtful access filters the crowd naturally, making for a peaceful day in a solar-warmed setting.
Situated at an elevation of 7,227 feet, the cliff commands a presence in the lower reaches of Pine Creek Canyon within the Bishop Area. The rock's texture and quality allow both trad gear placements and sport bolts without compromising safety or fun. Expect tactile, solid features along a vertical to slightly overhanging wall. The routes here vary, granting options for those stepping up from moderate 5.8 terrain to more sustained and technical 5.11 and 5.12 lines.
Classic climbs enhance the allure of this area. “Triple Jeopardy” (5.9) provides a reliable and rewarding moderate challenge rated well by the community. “My Dirty Secret” (5.10c) calls for sharper technique and focus without sacrificing accessibility. Then there’s “Our Little Secret” (5.11b), a standout line that rewards precise movement and persistence, holding a strong reputation among area favorites.
With a south-facing aspect, Secret Cliffs captures early morning and midday sun well, warming climbers but also demanding attention to hydration and sun protection in hotter months. The prime climbing season stretches from early spring to late fall when California’s weather is dry and mild. Winter climbing is less predictable due to snowfall and cooler temperatures at this elevation.
Gear-wise, expect to climb on routes where both sport quickdraws and trad racks are useful. While no fixed gear specifics are documented, carrying a versatile rack that covers hand to small cams and a standard assortment of nuts will prepare you for traditional placements. Some easy scrambling and route-finding skills enhance the experience but no extreme technical trail hiking is necessary.
Safety considerations include the firmness of the rock—generally solid though climbers should always test placements on trad climbs—and the approach scramble’s exposure. Wear appropriate shoes for hiking off the trail, and take care negotiating the dirt road in wet conditions. Descents consist primarily of walking off via the access route, requiring attention on loose surfaces and a steady pace.
Secret Cliffs is situated within a broader landscape celebrated for its climbing potential: Pine Creek Canyon. This area is a gateway to the varied terrain of the Bishop Area in California’s Eastern Sierra, a favored destination for those chasing climbing, hiking, and alpine adventure alike. The area’s blend of solitude, exposure to high desert sun, and a mixture of sport and traditional climbing routes make it a rewarding stop for climbers looking to experience California’s granite outposts away from heavy crowds.
Pay careful attention to the lightly exposed scrambling on the access trail and approach. Rock quality is mostly sound but always test gear placements on trad routes. Loose dirt near the parking area can be slippery, especially after rain.
Access the parking area via the left fork off the dirt road shortly after turning off Pine Creek Road.
Use the approach path on the right side of the cliff for the easiest scramble to the base.
Plan for sun exposure; bring water and sunscreen especially in summer months.
Wear sturdy shoes suitable for scrambling and loose dirt on approach and descent.
Routes here mix sport and traditional climbing requiring a rack suited for small to medium cams and nuts, alongside quickdraws for bolted lines. Bring equipment for light scrambling and hands-on approach.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.