"Scheelite Canyon in Pine Creek offers an unbeatable collection of crack climbs near Bishop, California, including the famous Pratt's Crack offwidth. With a growing number of routes spread across several walls, this area promises rewarding challenges for traditional climbers of all levels."
Scheelite Canyon, home to the iconic Pratt's Crack Gully, sits quietly within Pine Creek Canyon near Bishop, California—an essential stop for climbers drawn to quality traditional crack routes. This side canyon stakes its claim with a compelling collection of clean, well-established cracks that challenge hands, fists, and even offwidth aficionados. The canyon's most celebrated feature—Chuck Pratt's legendary offwidth—is a highlight that draws climbers eager to test their technique and stamina on a classic line. Beyond the namesake cracks, the area unfolds into several distinct sub-sectors: Mustache Wall, Ministry Wall, and Oser Wall, each offering unique climbing flavors and exciting potential as route development continues to evolve aggressively in recent years.
Arriving at Scheelite Canyon requires a bit of care but is well worth the effort. After driving 7.7 miles along Pine Creek Road, climbers turn right onto a dirt road opposite the campground. A quick fork presents itself immediately; choosing the right branch leads to a modest parking area just a few hundred yards ahead. From here, hikers enter the canyon itself, ready to immerse themselves in the climbing experience surrounded by stark rock and elevated desert air at roughly 7,300 feet.
The routes here tend to concentrate primarily on traditional climbing styles, with the rock demanding precise footwork and solid crack technique. Climbers will find a well-rounded spectrum of challenges beginning at moderate 5.9 grades up through sustained 5.12 climbs. Standouts such as Sheila (5.10b), Subatomic (5.10c), and Window Shopper (5.11b) showcase the range of crack sizes and climbing styles available, while more advanced routes like Flame Thrower (5.11c) and It's Not The Wheat (5.12a) test endurance and finesse. The climbs generally earn strong praise (4 to 4.5 stars) from those who’ve logged ascents here, reinforcing the area's reputation as a stellar crack climbing venue within the Eastern Sierra.
The climbing style here emphasizes pure crack technique and patient, strategic movement. The rock's texture and the canyon’s sheltered position offer a dependable experience through much of the year, although spring through fall remains the prime season to visit given the region's weather cycle. Climbers should prepare for dry conditions and bring gear suited to a variety of crack sizes given the range of route difficulties and crack widths. While some routes may have fixed anchors, a traditional rack featuring nuts, cams (especially medium to large sizes), and possibly offwidth-specific gear will make the difference in protection quality.
Descending the routes generally requires knowledge of single or double rope rappels or careful downclimbing where applicable; many climbs top out on ledges or forested benches providing natural rest points and safe transitions. Visitors appreciate the remote, quiet feeling of Scheelite Canyon, which contrasts with the busier crags closer to Bishop’s town center. The natural walls here rise steeply, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding Eastern Sierra peaks while providing a focused climbing venue where finesse and route-finding skill come to the fore.
For new visitors, some practical local tips can enhance the day:
Scheelite Canyon is a concentrated paradise for crack lovers, where each pitch delivers a taste of classic Bishop climbing framed by high desert expanses. The area retains an inviting yet challenging vibe — perfect for traditional climbers wanting to explore excellent crack routes without the crowds of more famous big walls. Whether chasing the namesake Pratt’s Crack or exploring further into Mustache Wall and beyond, the gully offers a grounding climbing experience grounded in technique and tradition. This canyon stands as a testament to Bishop’s enduring reputation as a crack climbing mecca and continues to reward adventurers willing to push their skills on real, unvarnished rock.
Watch your footing on the approach dirt road, which can be loose and rutted, especially after rain. Once on routes, be mindful of crack widths and gear placement - some cracks are offwidths demanding specialized technique and protection. Rappelling often requires double ropes due to the height and anchor setups, so ensure your gear config matches descent requirements.
Start your approach early to find parking and enjoy cooler temperatures.
Bring a broad rack beyond small cams as many cracks range up to offwidth size.
Carry at least 2 liters of water, especially on sunny days, since no reliable water sources exist near the canyon.
Check weather forecasts carefully, as spring through fall offers the best climbing window with stable weather.
A rack loaded with a variety of cams, nuts, and offwidth gear is essential for protection. Fixed anchors may be present on some routes but bringing full traditional gear ensures safety across diverse crack sizes, particularly on larger offwidths like Pratt's Crack.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.