"Rubics delivers a compact but precise sport climb in Clear Creek Canyon where clever movement and strategic clip placements are key. With an optional trad extension, this route offers both focused steep technicality and a chance to stretch into trad terrain."
Rubics stands out in Clear Creek Canyon as a concise but demanding sport climb that tests your technical finesse and route-reading skills. The climb kicks off on steep stone, where the rock’s sharp angles invite a careful dance to avoid the overhangs flanking both sides. Climbers face a choice early on—navigate a longer, less strenuous path laced with awkward, off-balance moves, or commit to the direct, more physical line that challenges you to power through a bulging section. The route’s fourth bolt sits just left of the faint line, a thoughtful placement designed to keep your rope clear of a razor-edged horizontal break. Pulling past this bolt leads to a subtle cut-out in the wall, where a snug belay ledge awaits along with a reliable two-bolt anchor stabilizing the top of the pitch.
For those seeking to extend their adventure, an optional second pitch offers a traditional climbing experience. This pitch, estimated around 80 feet at 5.6, ventures through rough terrain that demands industrial-strength cleaning efforts and sharp eyes for gear placements. A pair of bolted anchors mark the top, providing secure top-rope or rappel options. A short third pitch follows, more straightforward at 5.2, moving through easy trad terrain before transitioning into class 3 scrambling along a ridge that links up with the big ledge below Fun & Games pitch 2.
Set against the rugged backdrop of Golden, Colorado, Rubics presents a steep, focused engagement with the rock. The slab’s texture and the canyon’s peeling light create an atmosphere charged with purpose and quiet intensity. This climb requires solid clipping technique to handle the bolt line safely and decisiveness on the bulge. While brief, the route proves a worthy endeavor for climbers aiming to sharpen their movement and clipping under pressure.
Approach is straightforward, winding through Clear Creek Canyon within the Red Slab area, where the dry stone, windy creeks, and golden sunlight shape your rhythm on the wall. The quality of protection, predominantly bolts on the first pitch and mixed trad in the optional continuation, requires standard sport climbing gear complemented by a rack of medium cams and nuts for pitch two. Descending is simple, with rappel stations well marked and a walk-off slope for those completing only the first pitch.
Plan your day to avoid the midday sun blasting the slab; early morning or late afternoon provides better conditions, along with cooler rock and less glare. Hydration, solid footwear with precise edging ability, and a moderate-sized rack complement the gear list. With the climb’s compact length, it fits perfectly into a half-day climbing session with room to explore additional routes nearby or savor the canyon’s rugged scenery. Rubics captures the essence of Clear Creek’s sport climbing—direct, technical, and rewarding for climbers prepared to engage fully with every move.
Beware of the sharp horizontal break near the fourth bolt which can abrade rope—maintain short draws here. The optional second pitch requires heavy cleaning and has loose rock, so caution and experience in trad terrain are essential. Descend with care using bolted anchors, confirming your rappel set up before committing.
Start early or late to avoid strong midday sun on the slab.
Bring a mix of medium cams and nuts if attempting the trad second pitch.
Wear shoes with good edging capability for sharp rock features.
Check rope drag around the fourth bolt; keep draws short to avoid snagging.
First pitch equipped with 8 bolts leading to a safe double chain anchor. Optional second pitch demands traditional gear and requires thorough cleaning. Single 60m rope sufficient for rappels.
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