Adventure Collective

Route 3 at Fume Wall Right - A Direct and Sustained Colorado Sport Climb

Durango, Colorado United States
sport climbing
runout start
exposed
helmet recommended
single pitch
moderate difficulty
dihedral finish
maintained route
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Route 3
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Route 3 at Fume Wall Right presents an engaging sport climb with a bold, runout start that eases into sustained moderate climbing. With solid bolts and a tricky dihedral finish, it offers a perfect challenge for climbers ready to sharpen both skill and nerve in Durango’s striking sandstone cliffs."

Route 3 at Fume Wall Right - A Direct and Sustained Colorado Sport Climb

Rising sharply from the rugged cliffs of Fume Wall Right near Durango, Colorado, Route 3 challenges climbers with a blend of sustained movement and exposed sections that demand focus and respect. This single-pitch sport climb stretches upwards with a lean, athletic line marked by eight or more solid bolts leading to secure chains. The route opens with a runout to the first bolt, requiring commitment before easing into more comfortable climbing moves above. As you ascend, a hollow flake near the top invites a careful decision: stay slightly left to enter a direct dihedral and avoid unstable rock. The route remains actively cleaned, so a helmet isn’t just recommended—it’s essential to protect against loose debris.

The environment around Fume Wall Right enhances the climb’s character, with the cliff’s rough texture gripping your fingers as the wind whispers through the peaks beyond. Below, the climb shares its descent zone with Wasted Asparagus, finishing beneath a small residential structure. This proximity calls for courtesy; quiet communication and hand signals preserve the peaceful setting and respect local residents.

Approaching Route 3 means navigating the Fume Wall area’s dry, sun-soaked terrain—a brief hike from trailheads near Durango places climbers in position beneath the sheer, weathered rock faces. The approach trail’s uneven footing demands sturdy shoes and steady footing, especially when carrying gear. Timing your climb during the cooler hours of morning or late afternoon is wise to avoid the strongest sun exposure, common in this southwest-facing section.

Protection consists primarily of extensive bolt placements, providing reliable security throughout the pitch. These bolts, spaced to encourage clean clipping and thoughtful progression, allow climbers to focus on movement and footwork rather than gear placement. Despite the solid protection, the lead feels committing due to the first bolt's runout, perfect for climbers looking to build mental toughness alongside physical skills.

While the grade registers at 5.9-, the route leans toward the energizing side of this scale—climbers may find crux moves near the top dihedral where balance and precise foot placement take precedence. This makes Route 3 a gateway to more complex sport climbs nearby, offering an excellent step for those seeking to push their limits in a classic Colorado setting.

Descend by lowering off the chains back to the base; the single-pitch nature keeps this straightforward but requires attention to rope management to avoid dragging against rock. Helmets and careful communication enhance safety during all stages—approach, climb, and descent. Local climbers appreciate respect for the neighbors and the natural environment, making etiquette as essential as chalk and carabiners.

In sum, Route 3 at Fume Wall Right offers a direct, no-nonsense sport climb that tests skills with its unique combination of runout starts, moderate crux, and exposed top moves. It's a climb that rewards preparation and boldness while inviting climbers into the quiet but demanding rock of southwest Colorado.

Climber Safety

Since the climb is still being cleaned, falling rock is a concern. A helmet is essential. The initial runout to the first bolt calls for exact clipping and commitment. Also, be mindful of managing rope drag during descent to prevent rope wear or snagging.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Wear a helmet to guard against loose rock during climbing.

Communicate quietly or use hand signals near the house below the climb to minimize disturbance.

Approach trails are uneven—use sturdy hiking shoes and pack light.

Time your ascent for morning or late afternoon to avoid intense sun on the southwest-facing wall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.9-, Route 3 leans toward a challenging side of this grade because of its initial runout and the sustained moves in the upper dihedral section. The crux involves precise balance in a narrow, direct line, making the actual effort feel closer to a solid 5.9. Climbers familiar with Durango sport routes will appreciate the mental edge this climb requires.

Gear Requirements

The climb is protected by eight or more bolts leading to chains, ensuring gear placements are straightforward and reliable. Climbers should bring a helmet because the route is still actively being cleaned and rockfall is a possibility.

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Tags

sport climbing
runout start
exposed
helmet recommended
single pitch
moderate difficulty
dihedral finish
maintained route